Originally Posted on truglo.com

TRUGLO, Inc. introduces a new model of TRITIUM PRO night sights specifically for the new M&P Shield 9 EZ pistol. This announcement coincides with the release of Smith & Wesson’s latest defensive handgun.

The new M&P Shield 9 EZ follows the original M&P 380 Shield EZ, delivering a compact, 9mm-chambered handgun in a platform designed to be easier to shoot and to manipulate than most conventional full-size pistols. TRUGLO’s proven TRITIUM PRO sight system makes the perfect upgrade for this new model by enhancing both daytime sight acquisition and nighttime/low-light performance.

TRITIUM PRO sights are built from rugged CNC-machined steel and treated with the company’s nitride FORTRESS FINISH™. Housed within the sight bodies are premium Swiss tritium vials that deliver optimal brightness from low ambient light to absolute dark conditions. The rear sight also includes an angled edge for emergency one-handed operation, which is ideally suited for the M&P Shield 9 EZ’s easy slide operation.

Two TRITIUM PRO sight models are available for the M&P Shield 9 EZ—one with an orange FOCUS•LOCK™ ring surrounding the front sight and one with a white ring. Both versions provide optimal contrast and quick sight alignment. The compact sight design maintains the original factory sight radius and fits in standard holsters.

Originally posted by Mossberg

Curious to know Brett Joy’s four criteria he uses to grade a rifle based on the hunting he does? Check out his review of the Mossberg Patriot, chambered at 6.5 Creedmoor, which was his rifle of choice this past season, lasting him all of 2020. From accuracy testing the factory loads to size and ammo specs, check out the latest Whitetail Tech Tip video to learn more.

Wildlife biologist and outdoor writer Larry Weishuhn reveals his top tips for calling and hunting coyotes. Originally posted by Hornady.

Under the cover of darkness coyotes yipped, yapped, and yodeled in just about every direction. The temperature hovered in the mid-30s as we gathered around the warming campfire at Hargrove Ranch. At the suggestion of our host Craig Archer, and fellow hunter Eddie Stevenson, I threw another log on the fire. Embers ascended skyward as if offerings and in the glow of the flames I could see Gary and Steve Roberson smile.

The ‘morrow’s morning came grudgingly, gray and frigid. In a hushed voice, Gary Roberson spoke, “If a coyote or bobcat comes in to the right of that tallest cactus almost straight ahead of you, take him Larry.” I nodded. Gary Roberson waved toward the left, “Eddie, if one comes in to the left of that cactus, he’s yours.” He continued, “I’ll watch behind us, just in case one tries to slip in.” Then added, “I sprayed a bunch of Texas Raised Hunting Products’ Predator Death Grip on the bushes next to the speaker. That should hold a coyote’s or bobcat’s attention and give plenty of time for a shot.”

Moments later Gary turned on the Rogue, his new electronic call which replicates exactly the same high pitch sounds made by a distressed rabbit — sounds no other electronic call can achieve.

In less than 20 seconds, a coyote appeared below me running through waist-high weeds, weeds I had grown up calling “wolf weed”. He weaved back and forth through the tall vegetation, heading towards the speaker positioned in Eddie’s area. I watched. Seconds later Eddie shot and the coyote crumpled.

Gary let the electronic call play a couple more minutes hoping another coyote would respond. When none did, Eddie retrieved his take. I walked toward Gary and Steve Roberson. Steve is Gary’s son and ace cameraman for their Carnivore television series which appears on Pursuit Channel.

“Well done!” said Gary, as Eddie dragged the coyote up to where we waited for him. “Load him up and let’s find another place to set up. Maybe we can call in another one before lunch” added Gary, smiling.

Before our morning’s coyote foray was over, we indeed shot two more. Our plan to reduce the Hargrove Ranch’s predator population to boost the whitetail and mule deer fawn survival rates was working.

As a wildlife biologist who long worked on wildlife management programs for whitetail, mule deer and other native wildlife, including non-game to song birds, I had suggested reducing the coyote population during winter and then again in early spring before fawns are born. In winter, because it is not uncommon for coyotes to pull down mature bucks suffering from the rigors of the rut, and in the spring/summer before fawns start hitting the ground.

February and early March are great times to hunt coyotes as well as bobcats. In some states the taking of bobcats is restricted or there is a fur season during which they can be taken, so always be sure to check your local regulations. Coyotes can pretty well be taken in most places at any time of the year.

The Burnham Brothers’ revolutionary and unequaled Rogue electronic call is the best tool I have ever seen used to take predators. And of course, I too have my ever-present Burnham Brothers C-3 mouth-blown call with me, whenever and wherever I hunt.

Over the past few years, Gary Roberson of Burnham Brothers Game Calls’ has done considerable research into what levels of sounds coyotes and bobcats can actually hear, which he has measured in hertz.

Research demonstrates humans can hear up to 23,000 hertz, coyotes up to 45,000 hertz and bobcats up to 64,000 hertz.

The standard electronic call with their speaker system and using recorded sounds take sound levels up to about 20,000 hertz, far below what coyotes and bobcats hear when a real rabbit squeals in distress. This is one of the reasons why if an area has been called to several times, coyotes and bobcats tend to no longer respond like they did when they heard the recordings for the first and second time. The sounds simply are not right.

Gary and his technical team developed not only a recording system that actually records to the level of a distressed rabbit and other distressed prey animals, but they also developed a speaker which presents and broadcasts those real sounds to their actual hertz levels. This is something no other electronic game call can currently do. He trademarked those techniques and equipment, so it will be years before another electronic game call company can come close to duplicating the process.

Actually, mouth blown calls, like the Burnham Brothers C-3 I carry with me everywhere, produce more hertz, beyond those produced with any current electronic call. This is one of the reasons I have often called in coyotes and bobcats in areas which have previously been called to, where predators were stated to no longer respond to calling.

The end result is that the Burnham Brothers’ Rogue electronic call works far better at calling in predators than any other system. As mentioned, calling in coyotes and bobcats where most serious predator hunters were previously convinced they could no longer be called in.

Using the world’s best and most unique electronic game call, the next step is simply choosing a firearm. My choices in these important missions have two constants, Trijicon scopes and Hornady ammo. I love hunting predators with rifles. My primary choice usually comes down to one of several Ruger №1’s, including a 257 Roberts, 270 Win, 30–06, 300 H&H Mag and possibly some bigger caliber rounds like the 405 Winchester and maybe even a 450–400 NE 3-inch. Too, I recently procured a Henry 30–30 Win single-shot, as well as a 30–30 lever action, which are both topped with Trijicon Huron scopes. Using Hornady 30–30 Win 160 gr. FTX LEVERevolution, these two are extremely accurate and fun to shoot.

Regarding bolt actions, those will likely amount to a 6.5×55 Swedish Mauser, shooting Hornady 140 gr. SST, a 275 Rigby shooting Hornady 140 gr. SP InterLock and a 280 Ackley Improved, shooting Hornady Precision Hunter 162 gr. ELD-X. Those three are Ruger M77 Africans. Then too, I have a 300 Win Mag in the same configuration that I plan on hunting with this year both for predators and big game, with it I’ll be shooting Hornady 200 gr. ELD-X Precision Hunter. Oh yeah, I also need to mention my Ruger M77 Guide rifle, topped with a Trijicon AccuPoint and shooting Hornady Outfitter ammo, loaded with 250 gr. GMX.

It is difficult to narrow myself down to a single rifle. I guess that means I’ve got to do a lot of different predator and big game hunts this year…

Do those rounds sound a bit big for less than 40-pound animals? Not to me. I like hunting coyotes and predators with the same rifles, scopes and ammo I use when hunting bigger game. Doing so is a great way to learn more about my hunting guns, and my abilities with them. And in my world, there is no such thing as over kill or too much gun!

Before heading out on a predator hunt, or for that matter any other hunt, I spray down with Texas Raised Hunting Products’ Scent Guardian. That includes clothes, hat, gloves, boots, binos, firearm and all other gear. The only other thing I usually take with me beyond my binoculars are shooting sticks, where I can rest my rifle for making a precise shot. Quite often I make these myself by cutting three sticks or relatively straight limbs about 40-inches in length and tying them together about four or so inches from one end. This length or height suffices since most of the time when I am hunting predators, I will be sitting down with my back against something to break my outline. If you have commercial shooting sticks, that too, is great. I have learned over the years everyone tends to shoot a lot more accurately with a properly rested firearm, no matter the target.

I guess all that’s left to say is it’s time to head to the coyote woods…

Originally posted by Winchester- Melissa Bachman 

As a waterfowl hunter, the question often arises as to what is better…3” or 3.5” inch waterfowl loads for 12-gauge. Although this can be a personal preference, it’s best to understand exactly what you’re getting with each before you make the decision.

First, figure out if your gun can handle 3.5” inch shells. Once this has been determined, the next decision comes with cost and recoil. With a 3.5” inch load, you will spend slightly more and also have increased recoil. For me, I usually base it off the quantity of shooting I foresee on the hunt. If there will be lots of shooting, I almost always go with the 3” option. This is both for the cost and the amount of kick I can handle in one day.

The good news about using either 3” or 3.5” inch Winchester Blind Side is the fact that they’ve used a ton of new technology to give you the most bang for your buck. For example, they use a hex six-sided shot. Not only does this provide increased trauma and wound channels, it also allows pellets to stack better in the shell itself. The hex pellets in the same space give 15% more just because of the shape. So even if you choose 3” shells, you’re getting 15% more pellets than conventional round shot.

Another piece of technology Winchester has utilized to give you better results is the diamond cut wad. This maximizes the pattern performance of the hex shots. In fact, it provides consistent patterns that increase kill zones up to 25%. So again, the amount of new technology that Winchester has put into Blind Side gives amazing results regardless of what you choose.

Lastly, I always recommend getting a box of each and heading to the range. This way you can determine what is best for you and your gun. It’s very important for you to match the choke, load and gun at the range to get the best results and also learn what your effective range is. There is no magic way to just know – I’m a firm believer of knowing what your limitations are before ever hitting the field.

For example, I’ve seen people who think just because they are shooting 3.5” inch shell they can take much longer shots. As a hunter, you need to know your own limitations and stick to them. You will get denser patterns with more pellets when using a 3.5” shell, but you really need to test it out of your own gun ahead of time.

Spending time at the range patterning your gun is a great way to learn what you’re capable of, and once that’s all set do a little practice with clay pigeons and trap loads as well. You’ll be amazed how just a little practice before heading out will help knock down those late season ducks!

More people own guns now than ever before, but there are things that anyone new to gun ownership should know. Whether it’s something as basic as gun safety and shooting tips to cleaning your firearm and essential accessories, you’ve come to the right place to get started!

Safety is Key

Many gun-related accidents are due to improper handling or a misunderstanding of firearm safety, so this is the first thing you should ever know when owning a gun. However, gun safety isn’t just for you but for those around you as firearms can quickly end a life.

The most important lesson is that guns aren’t toys, which is often overlooked. Guns are weapons of devastation and should be treated accordingly. That means keeping them holstered until you’re ready to shoot and make sure it’s at something you’re willing to lose. That said, there are four firearm safety rules:

1. All guns are always loaded.
2. Keep your gun pointed in a safe direction.
3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you’re ready to shoot.
4. Be sure of your target and what is beyond it.

Let me explain each one.

Whether you’re about to clean the gun, getting ready for the range, or going through your closet, assume that every firearm has a round in the chamber. If this is your first gun, understand that a magazine can be empty, and the gun can still be loaded.

The latter is why you should always aim down and away from anyone else until you’ve been able to confirm your gun isn’t loaded. Even then, it’s a good habit to just keep with these rules as well as keeping your finger away from the trigger.

Guns are just machines without the trigger pulled, so your finger is the single greatest safety. Even if you have the safety feature on, the trigger guard is there for you to rest your finger on unless you’re ready to shoot.

Lastly, always know your surroundings if you have your firearm on you. Bullets travel with such a velocity that they can penetrate a target, meaning that your bullet may pass through anything or anyone. Most ranges will have sandbags, sand, or dirt behind the targets for just that reason.

Shooting 101

Aside from knowing what’s behind your target and keeping your finger off the trigger, there are some basic tips for anyone new to shooting. If this is your first gun, it’s a safe assumption that you might not have experience behind the gun.

The best way to get better with your new firearm is to familiarize yourself with the weapon. That means spending time at the range consistently because it’s not like “riding a bike.” No champion shooter started that way, but practice doesn’t make perfect.

What does work is perfect practice, which is to say being able to consistently hit where you aim within a tight picture. In order to do that, it depends on whether you’re using iron sights or a scope of some kind.

With iron sights, line up the rear sights closest to you with the point at the end of the barrel and gently press the trigger. If you squeeze or pull the trigger, you’re likely to jerk your aim at the last second which is all it could take to throw off your aim.

Shooting with a scope is different because you’re not lining it up with the barrel. Scopes have a reticle of some kind, whether it’s a dot or LED shape in the center or a crosshair with lines going out that might have smaller notches. Those are either going to be MIL or MOA.

To learn more about that, there are some great tutorials on Youtube but the basics of shooting with a scope are to fire three test rounds and adjust your scope and aim. If you hit to the left of the target by an inch, click your scope one to the right if it’s in inches.

Also, for long-range shots, you’ll need to master your breathing and heart rate. Exhaling a few seconds before a shot can slow your heart rate, which affects the vein in the meat of your shoulder where the buttstock should rest.

Remember, when you make the scope adjustments, aim away from anyone nearby. That’s an easy way to get banned from a range and it’s easily avoidable, not to mention it could incite a reaction from someone deeming it as a hostile gesture.

Cleaning Your Gun

You don’t need to do it every time you use your weapon, but whether you’ve just gone to the range or returned from a hunting trip you’ll need to know how to properly clean your firearm. The first thing you’ll need is a gun cleaning kit.

Unless you need a cleaning kit that’s specifically for your weapon or caliber, a universal kit like the one linked should do the trick. That’s because most firearms follow a basic set of instructions that you can generally apply.

1. The first thing you should always do, and this can’t be stressed enough, is to make sure your gun isn’t loaded. Eject the magazine and check the chamber to visually confirm it’s empty. If you can’t remember if you checked, check it again.
2. With the slide locked back, run a bore brush from the chamber to the muzzle and pull it out. This will loosen up any built-up metal or other material.
3. Locate a cleaning patch, which will look like a small bandage for firearms, in your kit. Dip that in the cleaning solution provided and place the patch on the end of a cleaning rod.
4. Do the same thing with the rod that you did with the bore brush, running it from the chamber to the muzzle.
5. Once that’s had time to soak into the bore, which usually takes around 10 minutes, run the bore brush back through.
6. Wrap the end of your cleaning rod with a clean patch and push it through the bore until it comes out clean.
7. Gun oil should only be used for whatever pieces of your gun move, like the action. Don’t forget to clean the magazine and spring. Where to use gun oil and magazine aren’t universal, so follow your gun’s manual, but be careful about too much oil.
8. Put your gun back together, making sure that the slide and trigger are where they need to be. Remember: Your gun is a machine and machines need everything in a specific place to function.
9. Wipe off your gun with a cloth and let the slide go. Knowing your gun isn’t loaded, try dry-firing the weapon to make sure you put it back together right. Basically, that means cocking it and pulling the trigger without a bullet.
10. Lock your weapon away until you’re ready to bring it out again. Keep in mind that you might need to clean your weapon again before using it if you don’t shoot it for a long period of time.

Be Resourceful

There are a number of gun-related resources that any beginner should be aware of, whether you use them or not. The first, and most important one, is where to buy ammunition because you can’t use a gun without bullets.

Avoid overpaying for ammo at the range by buying it from Natchez before you go. You might also want to buy an extra magazine or holster.

Accessories can be a shooter’s best friend, from a gun lock or safe to scopes or even a suppressor for the quiet types.

One of the best resources for a new shooter can be a range membership. Experience really is everything when it comes to being a better shooter and the more familiar you get with your gun, learning the weight and recoil or how to clean it quicker, the better you’ll become.

Having a range membership will also introduce you to other shooters who might be able to help you, though never feel like you need to compete or rush. Experience isn’t learned overnight. If you want to take it one step further, though, you can take a class or get a license to carry.

Either one can provide you with knowledge on gun laws in your area, your rights as a gun owner, or potential legal scenarios you might encounter. These can all prove invaluable, even if you live in a state that allows open carry for everyone.

Whatever you choose to do, find a routine that works for you and stick with it. Whether it’s for protection or you’re going into law enforcement in the future, always follow the rules of gun safety and treat your firearm with respect. Good luck at the range!

When I was shooting competitive sporting clays, I was the Imelda Marcos of choke tubes. Couldn’t get enough of them. Stainless and ported, black oxide and with a color-coded constriction inset, knurled and short—I had ’em all from open to XXFull and dozens in between. The only one I never managed to get hold of was a jug choke I coveted for rabbit and other in-your-face target vaporization. You can’t have everything, I hear.

What you can have is clean choke tubes. Or at least cleaner choke tubes.

Choke tubes require more attention when it comes to cleaning than your barrels and most of the other parts you disassemble for cleaning. The two factors affecting this are the threads and the plastic buildup from wads.

Before I found the time-cutting solution I’m going to tell you about in a minute, my preferred way of cleaning choke tubes was to fill a small Mason jar full of Hoppe’s No. 9 and let the tubes I’d used that day soak. My version of dinner dishes in the sink for an overnight swim. I’d clean the rest of my gun, and by the time I was done the built-up plastic was easier to remove with a copper bore brush and some patches. Stubborn spots got the soft plastic or copper bristle utility brush, as did any ports, knurled ends, and the threads.

Thread grit is your enemy. It can ruin the threads of both chokes and barrels, and it can be a serious disruptor to fully seating your choke to the bottom of the threads, something that poses a possible firing hazard. A very careful, thorough wipe of your choke tube threads to ensure no grit remains between the highs and lows is the first order of business. The barrel threads are then treated to the same care, swishing around lightly lubed and then dry patches until they came away clean. Some like an extremely light lubricant on the choke tube threads before screwing them back in, and that can help get them unscrewed when you’ve got hot barrels. Just remember that too much can have your tubes unscrewing themselves as you shoot, something you do not want.

This detailed cleaning ritual worked, but it was tedious. More than a little elbow grease was needed when there’d been a long practice week followed by a two-day tournament in which cleanings were neglected until returning home Sunday night or the next week. Shoot 1,000 or more rounds a week without cleaning your tubes, and that plastic buildup will have you cursing. In addition, built-up grime between the threads can become cement-like—and there will be grime between the threads, I don’t care what brand of choke tube or gun you’re using. Trust me, the last thing you want to discover when you move from Station 7’s sets of 25-yard following pairs to Station 8’s 50-yard simultaneous minis is that you’ve left your choke tube wrench in the truck and you’re stuck addressing Station 8 with a Skeet II constriction. That doesn’t help rack up the “Xs” on the ol’ scorecard.

You only need to leave that choke wrench behind once to make sure it always has a place in your on-course range bag after that. An improvement over that, I’d say, is to carry a Hoppe’s Bore Snake with you.

I started packing one in my shell bag every time I went on course, running it through both barrels of my over/under every couple stations or so. You can do it with a semi-auto or pump, too, and without disassembly. Just drop the weighted end of the Bore Snake into the open receiver (unloaded gun, of course) and down the barrel. Next, pull it through from the muzzle end as you would if the barrel were off the receiver assembly, though you may have to help some of the Snake through the narrow receiver as you won’t be pulling it in a straight line until the entire device is in the barrel.

Did this render my gun spotless at the end of a tournament weekend in which I might fire 400 rounds? No. Did it reduce my overall cleaning time? Yes it did. More important, the chore of choke-tube cleaning became much easier. No more long soaks in a Mason jar of Hoppe’s. No more scrubbing at the tough spots. Even the holes in my ported tubes had reduced residue buildup. A quick swab with a bore brush, patch with solvent, a dry patch or two, and a thread cleaning were all it now took to have my tubes back to squeaky clean.

Do yourself a favor. If you spend any time shooting trap, skeet, five-stand, sporting clays, or F.I.T.A.S.C., stuff a Hoppe’s Bore Snake in the side pocket of your shell bag. When it comes time for the after-shoot breakdown and cleaning you (and your choke tubes) will be glad you did.

If this is your first long-range competition, you may not know how important proper breathing technique is when it comes to winning. If you’re not paying attention to your breathing, then you won’t be getting the most accurate shots that you can. It seems simple, but it’s not. It takes practice and concentration to perfect the way that you breathe.

Of course, breathing isn’t everything. The quality of your scope and rifle are essential too. If you’re looking for the best long-range scope money can buy or the best upgrades for your AR-15, then check out these links. But if you’re looking to improve your breathing technique, then keep reading to learn everything you need to know to win your next long-range shooting competition.

What is Breathing Technique?
In the simplest terms, your breathing technique is the precise way that you control your breaths when you’re getting ready to fire your rifle. Exhale at the wrong time, and you’ll ruin your shot.

It sounds dramatic, but the way that you inhale and exhale, and more importantly, when you do it, is crucial to increasing the accuracy of your shots. When you inhale or exhale, your chest expands or relaxes. That causes your whole upper body to move. It happens all day long to the point where you don’t even notice it happening anymore. When it happens as you’re trying to aim your shot, though, you’ll start to notice when your shots aren’t hitting the target. In some cases, it may be your scope or mounting that’s off. More often than not, though, it’s going to be your breathing technique.

So Why is Breathing Technique Important?
Most people haven’t learned that there are different ways to breathe. Unless you were in band, choir, or something like track and field, you probably don’t know the difference. The majority of people associate breathing with your chest and lungs. That’s not wrong, but it’s not the whole picture. When you breathe with just your chest muscles, you’re getting more oxygen and more air than you should be. This causes short breaths that raise your shoulders. That’s the kind of stuff that’ll cause your rifle to move and throw off your aim. These short breaths can be refreshing, but they can also give you the jitters because of the sudden rush of oxygen to your brain. On the other hand, when you use your diaphragm to breathe into your stomach, you’ll have longer, steadier, and more calming breaths. Not only does that help you relax and focus better, but it stops your upper body from moving all over the place. That’s going to increase your accuracy immensely. It’ll also help keep you relaxed so that you don’t tense up right before pulling the trigger.

Getting those short, quick breaths from your chest isn’t always bad, though. Sometimes, especially after a long round of shooting, taking a few of those quick chest breaths can help energize and stimulate you. They can be beneficial if you feel overwhelmed or feel like you’re starting to lose focus. To prevent fatigue and get the best shots consistently, it’s important to know when to breathe which way. Just remember, slow and steady before the shot, quick and excited after you’ve nailed the shot.

How To Train Your Breathing Technique
So now you know how important your breathing is to your accuracy, it’s time to fix it. One of the first things you need to learn how to do is breathe from your stomach. First, make sure that you’re breathing in through your nose and out through your mouth. This allows for more controlled breathing and filters and warms the air that you breathe in.

Now, there are two main schools of thought toward breathing techniques. The first one says that you shouldn’t hold your breath or pause your breathing at all. Instead, you should continue to breathe in and out as you line up your shot and shoot just as you usually would. The only difference in your breathing will be that you are breathing from your stomach and taking slow, deep, measured breaths instead of quick chest breaths. You’ll still have to focus on keeping your breathing even and measured, so it will still take some practice to master. Pay attention to your body, and you’ll know when it’s time to take the shot. This technique works for some long-range competition shooters and for taking regular shots.

The “relaxed shot” is the other breathing technique that is easy to learn and widely used in long-range competition shooting. For this, you’ll be breathing in cycles. Breathe in and out as you naturally would as you begin to line up your shot. During the pause in between breaths, you’ll hold your breath for 3-5 seconds. This is when you slowly squeeze the trigger and take the shot. Rinse and repeat. The idea is that when you fire during the pauses where you’re neither inhaling or exhaling, your body will be at its most relaxed. You’ll always be at your most precise when your body isn’t tense. There is an important caveat to this, though. Don’t try to find your shot while you’re holding your breath. So, when you pick up your rifle and you’re finding your target, that’s when you inhale. When your front sight is pointed at the target and you’re lined up, exhale and stop breathing until you have fired your shot. This pause in between breaths where you don’t breathe for a few seconds is known as the Natural Respiratory Pause or NRP. Try not to think of it as holding your breath, but rather as taking advantage of the break that your lungs take by themselves; you’re just going to be more aware of it.

Now, which breathing technique should you use? That’s up to you. Give them both a try and see which one works best for you. Changing your breathing technique isn’t going to be an instant fix for your accuracy, but the more you practice it, the more precise you’ll become. It seems like a straightforward thing but pay attention to how you’re breathing the next time you head to the practice range. I’m willing to put money on the fact that you shoot better when you control your breathing.

I’m Breathing Differently, Now What?
Again, it’s not going to be an instant fix. You’re not going to know exactly how to breathe the right way the first time you try. After a few times of actively trying to control your breathing, though, I guarantee that you’ll notice a difference. Keep practicing it every time you’re at the range, and soon it will become second nature.

If you’re still not noticing a difference after fixing your breathing, then it may be time to look at your equipment and make sure that you’re using quality gear. Make sure that you’re using the right kind of rifle for the shooting that you’re doing. You probably shouldn’t be using a break action rifle for intense competition shooting, for example. From there, make sure that you’ve got the correct optics, iron sights vs. red-dot sights, and any other accessories (such as a suppressor to reduce hearing damage) that you might want. Accessories aren’t one size fits all, so make sure that the one you’re eyeing is going to work on your firearm before you buy it.

From there, it’s all just trial and error and practicing until you’re great. Good luck and remember to breathe!

To perfect any art, regular and even rigorous training is a must. The same is true for rifle and pistol shooting. It’s easy to prioritize the shooting itself, but mental training is equally important. Experts recommend experimenting with different physical exercises to improve shooting accuracy.

For shooting, training your body is a must. Training your mind is also important, and one of the most important skills is building muscle memory.

Muscle memory is a skill that is gained by repetitive movement. To achieve the same square several times, you’re required to assume the same shooting position, which results in improved shooting accuracy. Experts recommend exercising in training and competition environments to help you adapt to different conditions.

It’s important to build muscle memory in your hands, arms, shoulders, and chest, which makes it easier to move the gun easily and accurately.

Developing Muscle Memory

You can only build muscle memory by assuming the same position repeatedly. This way, it becomes easy to aim your shot because you know where the bullet is coming from and where it will ideally strike. As we all know, practice makes perfect. By repeating the same movement, it will become easy to assume the same position whenever you’re shooting.

Starting each shot with unique positioning does the opposite. It confuses your body and makes it difficult for your procedural memory to repeat the action. This will prevent you from taking accurate shots.

One of the most effective methods of building your muscle memory is through dry firing. Wind and other factors affect shot accuracy. Some factors that are within your control are how you hold the firearm and the position you assume when taking the shot. Dry firing comes in handy in developing a solid shooting position and creating muscle memory, which makes it easier to take accurate shots. Once you master dry firing, you won’t need to visit a shooting range to perfect your shooting.

Once you’ve mastered dry firing, consider using real ammunition. This will help you gauge how it reacts to different characteristics, and you’ll then be able to adapt your body to any movement of the trigger.

The Fundamentals of Dry Firing

It’s estimated that it takes 10,000 repetitions to build muscle memory. This requires a lot of time and ammunition. Dry firing solves this complexity.

Before you shoot, ensure that all the guns are unloaded. This is a necessary safety precaution and also the point of the exercise.

Then work towards correcting the errors. When you have mastered accurate shooting, you can start using live ammunition.

While shooting, it’s important to pay attention to every action that’s taking place including the firing sequence and holding the sight picture. Breath in and squeeze the trigger as you breathe out.

Practice Makes Perfect

There are several reasons why dry firing is so helpful for building muscle memory.

No Recoil, Less Flinch
Firing a gun is difficult because the brain tries to resist actions it considers dangerous. The loud noises and jolts make it hard to achieve an accurate shot when you’re handling a gun. The body reacts to the loud gun noises and jolts with reflexive action, which can cause the eyes to shut or look away. We know this as flinching.

When you dry fire, there are no loud noises. You won’t flinch, which makes it easier to learn how to shoot a gun safely and effectively.

Building Confidence
Learning to achieve a perfect shot can frustrate anyone, especially when you’re trying to hit the bullseye to no avail. That, coupled with the cost of ammunition, can frustrate even the calmest shooter. Thankfully, with dry fire, there are no holes in the target that show missed shots. This is a tremendous morale boost for the shooter because they are likely to remember what they did right instead of focusing on their failures. They can also identify areas of improvement.

Practice Non-Shooting Gun Skills
There is more to shooting than taking the actual shot itself. Shooters must also master the right positioning, gun drawing, reloading, one hand shooting, and aiming a shot while moving.

There is Less Trigger Jerking
Jerking the trigger prevents the shooter from making an accurate shot. Two things can cause this: failure to master trigger control and taking the shot too quickly when the shooter thinks the target is at the perfect position.

Dry fire helps a shooter practice firing a gun without experiencing the nuisances of trigger jerking.

Hear It From a Pro!

In a Nutshell

Dry fire helps build muscle memory which helps improve your shooting accuracy. One of its advantages is that shooters get to practice without using ammunition which translates to lowered costs. Besides, new shooters learn gun handling techniques after which they can proceed to use real ammunition. To improve your accuracy, we highly recommend trying the dry-fire exercises recommended above. Happy shooting!

by Jennifer “J Lynn” Cameron

Did you know that archery’s popularity is steadily growing? Bowhunting is catching on in the mainstream, school archery programs are expanding, and cities across the nation have archery leagues.

And there are several reasons for this explosion in interest. Social interaction, enjoying the outdoors, and the sport itself benefit those who shoot.

For instance, spending time outside is often an activity taken for granted — but the mere act of being outside is good for you, from fresh air to vitamin D exposure. This is one of the most important vitamins for us, as it supports our bones, improves mental health, and even strengthens our immune systems. A day spent at the range is a day well spent!

But did you know that there are plenty of other reasons archery is such a healthy activity? Archery has such benefits for the human body, as it:

• Improves hand-eye coordination.
• Strengthens muscles.
• Improves heart health.
• Relieves stress.
• Boosts patience.

It’s a fantastic activity for children and adults alike. Looking for equipment? Consider the Bear Archery Legit RTH Compound Bow for adults or the Barnett Vortex Youth Compound Bowfor children.

Top 5 Health Benefits of Archery

Let’s delve into how you and your family can experience these significant benefits if you take up this sport.

1. Improved Hand-Eye Coordination

Your success in archery depends greatly on how well you coordinate your movements. When you shoot a bow, you must be able to transmit cues to your brain about adjustments necessary in your stance. Over time, your hand-eye coordination continues improving and becomes second nature. Given enough time, your reactions to visual stimuli will become faster.

There aren’t many sports in which this trait is as important to develop. Proper hand-eye coordination allows you to complete tasks in your daily life, like driving your car. If you practice regularly, archery can improve your efficiency in those daily tasks, too.

2. Strengthened Muscles

If you’ve ever drawn a bow and arrow, you know how much upper body and arm strength it requires. Every day you spend in practice strengthens all the muscles involved in the action. As time goes by, drawing the bow becomes easier and easier.

Some of the muscle groups involved in drawing a bow include:

• Shoulders
• Back
• Chest
• Arms
• Abdominal

In fact, after a long day of shooting, you’ll feel it. It’s quite the workout!

3. Improved Heart Health

Just the workout you get from practicing archery should be enough to convince you that this sport is well-worth the effort. What many people don’t know is that archery, because it is so body-intensive, also has incredible cardiovascular benefits. You might think of treadmills or going for a good run when you think cardiovascular, but shooting arrows is also great for your heart.

We explained above all the muscle groups involved in practicing archery — this physical exertion boosts your heart rate. Walking back and forth from the shooting area to your target to retrieve your arrows also gets the blood pumping. In conjunction, this activity even burns calories at a much higher rate than other sports. But the best part? You’re exercising, and it’s enjoyable! It doesn’t feel forced like so many other activities, such as running or jogging.

4. Relieves Stress

It’s a well-known fact that stress wreaks havoc on the body and is one of the leading causes of medical problems such as:

• Heart disease
• High blood pressure
• Diabetes
• Obesity

Archery just happens to be a fantastic way to exercise and the perfect way to blow off some steam, cutting much of life’s daily stresses to a minimum.

One of the most significant reasons archery relieves stress so well is that you can escape the rat race of city life and head for the great outdoors. If you don’t get much time in nature, this can be a rejuvenating experience. Decreasing your stress levels not only helps ward off the above medical issues, but it can even lengthen your life and decrease potential future illnesses.

5. Boosts Patience

You might think archery is simple — build up stamina, practice, aim, hit the target, and voila! You’re an archer! While the sport is relatively easy to learn, it’s quite difficult to hone. Of course, it’s fun, but there are times when it can be really frustrating, too. The more you practice — and the more you goof up — the more patience you develop, which is essential if you want to be an archer in the long term. It takes fierce determination, and skill, to repeat an action perfectly over and over. But this practice is exactly what makes you better — at archery and at life!

Natchez Shooting Supplies has all the accessories you need for your new activity.

Archery for Better Health

You might dread having to get up and head to the gym before work, but it’s highly likely you’ll spring out of bed before the alarm to spend some time out in nature shooting arrows at targets. The passive nature of archery is one of its most wonderful qualities.

Taking the time to learn, hone, and perfect archery promotes your physical and mental health. This isn’t whimsy, but reality. Just ask any archer!

Writer byline: Jennifer “J Lynn” Cameron is a freelance writer recently transplanted to the Midwest. When she’s not writing, she dreams of world travel. With coffee.

1) https://archerytrade.org/survey-says-23-8-million-americans-enjoyed-archery-in-2015/

2) https://www.archerybusiness.com/is-archery-participation-on-the-rise

3) https://www.fitday.com/webfit/burned/calories_burned_Archery_nonhunting_.html

4) https://www.webmd.com/balance/stress-management/stress-symptoms-effects_of-stress-on-the-body

B&P Gordon Hull: How and Why Does it Absorb Recoil?
author Federica G

Since the introduction of the Gordon Hull in the early 1990s, its recoil reduction has been greatly appreciated by shooters and hunters alike. It has represented a major innovation in how to soften the recoil caused by the energy unleashed when firing a cartridge.

What is the Gordon Hull?
The Baschieri & Pellagri Gordon Hull is recognizable by its unique, shock-absorbing base wad. The base wad closes the bottom of the shell casing while at the same time anchoring the end plug tube and serving as the primer seating.

Together with the metal end plug, it creates a solid structure that resists the shock of the firing and extraction phases. In addition to this, however, and unlike other paper or plastic base wads the Gordon shell casing also absorbs recoil.

To understand this better, let’s start with how and felt recoil works and feels
In a physical sense, recoil is a consequence of the third law of dynamics which states that to every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.

In the case of a firearm, the gas pressure generated by the gunpowder ignition propels and accelerates the bullet or pellets along the barrel as they exit the muzzle. This, in turn, creates an equal and opposite force in the shell casing against the breech of the firearm and the shooter’s shoulder or hand. The force produced by this energy is called technical recoil.

So, technical recoil is the result of this expended energy and is what causes the classic kick to the shoulder.

Technical recoil depends mainly on two factors:
1. The cartridges: The pellets’ weight and speed must be taken into consideration. These two factors determine the kinetic energy generated by the cartridge which will, therefore, also affect the firearm’s recoil.

2. The weight of the shotgun: The weight of the shotgun opposes the energy generated by the shot. The greater the weight of a firearm, the smaller its recoil will be. This explains why target shotguns generally weigh more than hunting shotguns which are designed to be carried longer and shot less. The reason is again due to the laws of physics– simply stated, the opposite force towards the breech of the firearm needs to move a greater weight (that of the shotgun).

This is the technical recoil of a firearm. But how is this different from felt recoil?
Even though the energy of the recoil is equal to the kinetic energy generated by the shot it is, however, possible to manage how this energy is distributed and absorbed by a system combining factors comprised of the shooter, the shotgun, and the cartridges.

In fact, felt recoil refers to how the shooter literally physically feels the energy that is discharged into their hand or shoulder and the body during the recoil of a firearm.

What is the underlying implication of felt recoil?
Taking into consideration the shotguns and cartridges, the energy of the technical recoil cannot be canceled out. How it is absorbed can however be managed, thus changing the shooter’s perception. In this case, we are talking about felt recoil.

How the Gordon Hull acts at the time of the shot
As soon as the shot is fired, the gunpowder inside the cartridge becomes high-pressure gas. Due to the radial resistance of the steel barrel this gas can expand only axially, that is to say forward onto the pellets and backward onto the shooter’s shoulder.

The wadding acts on the energy released onto the pellets
The force on the pellets is effectively dampened by the springiness of the wadding, which acts as a shock absorber that collects the impulse and distributes it not only over a longer time, thus slowing it down. It also is affected by a larger uniform surface (the whole section of the barrel), thus decreasing the impulse on the pellets. In this manner, the pellets are deformed much less.

The Gordon Hull acts on the energy directed towards the shooter’s shoulder
With a conventional shell casing, there is nothing to absorb the backward force of the gases, so the impact on the shoulder is perceived in all its violence.

When using the shock-absorbing Gordon Hull together with an active base wad, the impact of the gases in the direction of the shooter’s shoulder will be in part absorbed by the shock absorption of the Gordon Hull and in part by the springiness of the wadding. In this manner, it offsets this force and thus generates a much smaller recoil effect.

That is why we discussed felt recoil before!

What is the final result?
If you have ever fired cartridges with a Gordon Hull, you probably already know the ultimate feeling of shooting softness and comfort even with large shot weights such as 28 grams in skeet shooting or 38-42 grams for hunting.

These Gordon Hull cartridges are specially designed to minimize the recoil felt by the shooter and are unique in offering two distinct dampening systems in two different sections of the cartridge.

In one direction the Gordon Hull acts on the perceived pressure to the shooter’s shoulder and in the opposite direction, thanks to the wadding, there is less strain on the pellets which allows them to better maintain their roundness. The result is in a more compact and uniform shot pattern and better penetration.

6 Things to Do to Prepare for a Backpack Hunting Trip

Backcountry hunting is usually a single-day affair. Hike in, hunt, hike out. Backpack hunting, however, adds in at least camping overnight. This adds in a plethora of complications, from food to where you will sleep. With the proper preparation and the right gear, like Redfield scopes for your rifle, iodine tablets for water, and a map to your campsite, you can have a fun, successful hunt.

Get Ready to Be Alone
First, you are likely going to be alone for this hunting trip. Bring a book and get ready for solitude. You will be alone at night, which for the first night can be unnerving. Every snap of a twig can sound like something getting close to the tent. Try to ignore most of it, so you wake up well-rested.

Pack the Right Gear
You will need to carry every item in and out, with the added weight of an animal when packing out. You should know how much food and water you will need, as well as clothes that cover every part of your body. Be sure to have comfortable boots and socks. Bring all the accessories you need for your rifle, from Bushnell scopes to monopods. You will want water purifiers or iodine tablets to ensure you are drinking safe water. Bring tools to clean and repair your firearms and a field dressing kit for the game. You will also need a sleeping system, such as a shelter like a tent or a bivy sack, a sleeping bag, and a sleeping pad.

Be Realistic
If you haven’t been regularly hitting the gym, don’t expect to hike for miles at a high elevation. Instead, hike in a manageable distance, knowing you will have to haul a heavy animal back out. You shouldn’t expect a four-course meal every night, as packing food and something to cook with takes up space that you will need to manage.

Keep Your Boots Dry
One of the worst things that can happen during a backpacking hunt is to hike with wet boots. You’ll quickly get blisters, making the rest of your hunt miserable. From creek crossings to dew on high grass, it’s easy to get your boots and socks wet. Bring extra socks and have a way to dry your socks. Protect your boots as much as possible and keep your feet dry. You can prepare for your hunt by waterproofing your boots.

Make Sure You Are Hydrated
Keep drinking water throughout the day. If you are thirsty, you already need water. Bring either a water purifier or iodine tablets. You may want to consider bringing a water bladder, though refillable water bottles can also work at the cost of weight.

Pick Out a Camping Spot Beforehand
Do your research beforehand. Find a spot for camping that is protected from the wind and close to a water source. Camping in the wrong spot can mean risking you being able to reach a vantage point, not hearing elk at night, or being too far from water.

Find firearms parts and accessories and hunting supplies for your backpack hunt at www.natchezss.com

7 Steps to Making Your Grandfather’s Rifle Hunt-Ready

You just found your grandfather’s old rifle, and you want to restore and take it to the range or use it for hunting. The problem is that it’s old and unused. Does it still shoot? Does it have cracks in the wood? Does it only have iron sights and could use an upgrade to one of the Redfield scopes? Here are some steps you can take to take an old rifle and make it usable.

Take It to a Gunsmith
Your first step should be taking your rifle to a gunsmith. They can tell you whether the rifle is still shootable, and if not, what it will take to make it usable again. They can identify what parts need replacing, whether the pitting in the metal is too much, and whether cracks in the wood are fine or will break open more if you fire the rifle.

Disassemble and Clean
Once you know what you need to do, you will need to disassemble the firearm. If you don’t know how, try to find a video that breaks down the rifle step by step. If it’s an antique rifle, it might be very old and hard to disassemble due to dirt and grime building up over the years. Once disassembled, you will want to clean what you can. Use non-corrosive cleaning agents to avoid damaging the rifle.

Restore the Finish
Once you have given the rifle’s parts a once-over, it’s time to restore the finish. For the wood, use sandpaper to remove the old finish. Try to leave the areas where the action is fitted untouched, or you could have problems with fit later on. After the old finish is gone, you can use a finish like boiled linseed oil to bring the wood to life. You can stain the wood as well. Be warned that, left in the open, rags with boiled linseed oil can spontaneously combust.

Replace Parts
Next, replace any broken parts. Some parts may be hard to find, especially with older rifles. Surplus rifles may be easier to find parts for, and some popular guns have reproduction parts that you might find at modern suppliers.

Consider Upgrades
You may want to consider upgrades at this point. You can sporterize old firearms, though this will decrease their value. You may want to add modern optics, such as Bushnell scopes. You can also add other features, such as trading out parts from newer models that are still compatible.

Blue the Metal
You can cold blue any metal that was blued already but has lost the bluing. Cold bluing mostly restores the look and only provides minor resistance to rust. If you want the metal hot blued, you will likely need to visit a gunsmith, as it involves using boiling caustic liquids. If your firearm was not originally blued, you can skip this step and move on to reassembling.

Find Ammo
Once your rifle is reassembled, you’ll need to find the right ammunition. This can prove tricky for older rifles. You may consider crafting your own rounds to either lower expense or make it easier to have rounds to fire. Modern ammo is often more powerful, but there might be ammo for your caliber still manufactured.

Find parts, scopes, supplies for reloading, and more at www.natchezss.com

The AR-15 is America’s Sweetheart.

They’re the civilian version of the military’s M16. The only main difference being that you can’t fire in three-round bursts or full-automatic.

But while it’s just as versatile, accurate, durable, and downright dependable as the one trusted by the uniformed services, the one thing you can do with an AR-15 that you couldn’t dream of doing in the military is customize the heck out of it. Think of Legos — but for grown-ups. Entering the vast and colorful world of rifle mods can be overwhelming at first, and it will take some time to make sense of it all. So to help, here’s a list of the top 5 upgrades for your AR-15…

Optics
Optics are a no-brainer. It’s one of the best upgrades you can do to improve your accuracy — especially with long-distance shooting. The three different types of sights are the iron, red-dot, and telescopic sights.

Iron sights come standard on your rifle and are less accurate than a scope and can delay your reaction time. The upside is that they provide a reasonable degree of accuracy, and because they require no batteries, they are more dependable.

Red-dot sights are great because they superimpose a red dot over the target without actually emitting any beam or light. The dot is true, which means that even if your eye moves around, the round will hit exactly what the dot marks.

Telescopic sights are either fixed or variable. While a fixed magnification can limit you to a certain range, it is often superior to a variable sight adjusted to the same power. While the variable gives you more versatility, some say that a fixed sight performs better in its intended range. Again we see a balance between versatility and performance.

As with every other feature, you have to make your selection based on the intended use. A telescopic sight is bad for close-quartered tactical maneuvers, and holographic sights probably won’t be ideal for that buck downrange. There are many balances to be struck — cost versus quality, versatility versus performance, utility versus comfort — so how you accomplish that is a solo journey that requires trial and error.

 Handguards
The handguards are what protect your non-firing hand from the barrel as it heats up from shooting. As it heats up, not only can it burn your hand, but the accuracy diminishes significantly as well. Compounding that problem, hot barrels are more likely to warp over time. This creates an obvious need for handguards.

But while your AR-15 comes equipped with them already, there is quite a bit of latitude in how well they do their job. When you research handguards, you’ll come across the two types:

1. Drop-in
2. Free-floating.

Drop-ins are two pieces that you can install without having to remove any other components, such as the D-ring or front sight post. This is likely what your rifle already has installed. And while they do a reasonably good job, there is a compelling reason to get yourself free-floating handguards instead. When you fire a rifle, there is a nearly imperceptible oscillation and vibration — we’ll refer to these as ‘barrel harmonics’ — in the barrel that requires expensive instruments and cameras to detect. Just like skyscrapers are built to sway and aircraft wings are built to flap, the barrel is built to move in its own way. A free-floating handguard allows it to do its thing without any interference whatsoever because it slips over the barrel and makes absolutely no contact with it. This translates to improved accuracy.

The anatomy of your rifle will determine how easy the installation is and what size you need, but once you’ve determined those you can then decide between the fit and feel of the various options out there. There are two types of free-floaters — M-Lok and KeyMod — and both are fantastic. They both do the job while allowing for a wide array of gadgets to be easily attached. How many rails you want is entirely up to you, but try and get a feel for it before you make your decision. Utility and comfort is an important balance to strike. If you need help deciding between M-Lok and KeyMod, I can save you some trouble:

While up until now it has been a matter of personal preference, a clear winner has emerged following extensive testing conducted by USSOCOM (United States Special Operations Command): The M-Lok won out.

There are plenty of good products out there, but the Bootleg Camlok handguards are a solid choice because they’re M-Lok compatible, much easier to install (takes seconds) than the others, and they weigh next to nothing. They even come in different sizes to fit different barrel lengths.

Trigger
Your weapon already comes with a mil spec trigger that is durable and reliable. The problem with it is that the break point (the point at which the hammer is released), the pull length, and the trigger weight are all inconsistent.

They vary ever so slightly, but once you shoot with an upgraded trigger, you’ll never go back. There are two types:

1. Single-stage
2. Two-stage

The single-stage trigger works by applying a consistent force in a singular movement until the trigger breaks and the rifle shoots. Two-stage is more accurate because it splits up the force needed to fire.

Instead of applying, say, four or five pounds of pressure to the trigger until it breaks, you can apply two pounds until you hit an easily discernible “wall,” at which point just two pounds more of pressure will break and the rifle will shoot. You can then reset to the second stage for a quick successive shot. The only downside is you need to practice with it first to familiarize yourself.

Stock
Your AR-15 probably already comes with a fixed buttstock. While it serves its purpose, there is plenty of room for improvement. The two other types are the more versatile adjustable stocks and the minimalist stocks for the more aesthetically minded.

A collapsible stock can be adjusted to be longer or shorter. This is important for a weapon that will change users often if the size of the shooter changes (if you’re bundled up for a freezing morning in the woods or wearing body armor, you’ll need to adjust the length accordingly), or how tactical you need to be (for target practice, you can keep it long to fit your frame comfortably; for the tactically minded who need to operate in close quarters you need it collapsed).

Either way, aim for a stock that is lightweight, comfortable, and durable. Just be mindful of your local laws, as some places restrict their usage.

Muzzle Brakes
When you fire, the gas created in the explosion pushes backward as it expands outward from the barrel. This process is known as recoil, and my guess is that you’re no stranger to it.

In a nutshell, a muzzle brake allows the gases to disperse more efficiently. This translates to a reduction in vertical/horizontal movement and recoil, meaning greater accuracy and quicker realignment of the sights after each shot. The downside is it adds to the length of the barrel and can be noticeably louder than the stock option. Muzzle brakes are easy to install and are on the cheaper side of upgrades (less than $100).

This article by Richard Douglas originally appeared here.

As the weather starts to change and the leaves begin to fall, many are busy working on prepping their land for the upcoming waterfowl season. It seems to always be a frantic time of preparation, hope, and excitement for what the season will provide. In southeast Tennessee, the past several years have been a roller coaster of too much rain, too little rain, or any other combination of catastrophe that seemed to tilt the odds ever so slightly away from the waterfowl hunter. It was those memories and concerns that made several of my friends and I jump at a chance to hunt a property in central Mississippi in early January 2020.

The thought of getting a fresh start on a property with proven success excited us with the possibilities of aching shoulders from the weight of our game straps filled with waterfowl. We spoke of how the season had not worked in our favor in past years but this opportunity could right those wrongs. Some would even say that this could be the launching pad for a tremendous year in the field, pursuing various game from January to December, with experiences that would revival the hunting icons of the past. It was this same excitement that would occupy our minds for the 5-hour truck ride to Mississippi and even consume our thoughts as we sat in our hotel rooms prepping our gear for the next morning.

The morning of the hunt, I looked at the buzzing alarm thinking, you’re late my friend, as we had been up for nearly an hour getting ready for the day’s adventure. The air was cold and crisp as we left our hotel and piled our gear into the truck for the short drive to the property through the back roads of Mississippi. We each spent the drive discussing the items we had left at home and the possibilities of there being time to stop for coffee as we drove down the dirt and clay roads until finally, we had arrived at the gate of the property.  We barely waited for the truck to be parked before jumping out to greet the landowner and guide with various jokes about one another and handshakes.

We had met this landowner and guide many times before and we knew that this trip would be nothing short of exciting due to their pure joy of the sport.  They both helped us to stow the rest of our gear and ourselves into the waiting minitruck that towed a small jon boat and then instructed us to hold as we drove into the dark abyss of the morning. The ride seemed to only last a few minutes before stopping and hearing the landowner say, “Well, from here it’s by foot, due to the water levels being up tremendously.”

Several of us stripped off our jackets and loaded the jon boat with decoys, firearms, ammo, and other gear in preparation for the hike that leads us to the blind. It did not take but just a few moments for the ankle-deep water to turn into waist-deep to chest-deep water as we struggled to keep our balance walking the now submerged access road. The feeling of the cold water compressing the legs of our waders was a welcoming feeling as we continued to strip off layers of outerwear during our march to the blind as we found ourselves questioning each layer we removed. We took turns towing the small jon boat for a rope tied the bow thru the water while the others used the small boat to keep themselves stable through the forest of submerged trees, mud, and roots that grabbed at your feet seemingly waiting for you to trip for the amusement of the trees.

After several minutes of maneuvering through this maze of trees, the woods opened up into a flooded plain that seemed to be the backdrop from the latest waterfowl magazine with just the very beginnings of the night’s sky turning a slight blue. You could feel the party’s excitement growing as we pushed towards the waiting blind that was starting to take shape from the surrounding vegetation. We chatted amongst ourselves discussing the various tasks that needed to be completed once we arrived to ensure a speedy setup.

It did not take long for our entry into the blind to be forgotten by the local wildlife, as the various birds and squirrels started their day of foraging for food when we heard our first distant duck. We immediately stopped whatever we were doing to listen and gauge from what direction the call had come from. “I think it came from behind us,” said one of the guys as he was still trying to chew his donut. Another said, “Maybe it came from the East?” pointing in a roughly Easterly direction with a hand still clinging to his coffee.

However, none of these directions mattered because only moments later we had a small flock of ducks land perfectly in the middle of decoys. We all looked to our guides waiting on the nod to open fire, knowing it was still just a little too early. “Shhhh…….let’s see if we can get some more ducks to fall into these decoys.” said one of the guides as they both started to speak to the waterfowl in the area with their calls. It seemed to be only minutes later and here came another flock and then another. Our hearts pounded ever more rapidly with each bird that landing on the water.

“Look!” loudly whispered one of my friends, “we have another grouping coming from behind us!” “Let’s get these ducks in close and you guys be ready.” said one of the guides. Time seemed to crawl as we watched the birds circle our blind once, then twice, finally cupping their wings as they committed to our set up.  “Alright guys……..NOW!” said the guides, as we fired upon the waterfowl in the air.

The ducks fell as we emptied our shotguns and struggled to reload.  Our excitement was hard to contain and only when we were told that another grouping was coming from the distant tree line, did we quiet down and crouch like cats getting ready to pouch on a mouse, “Get ready boys….here they come…” Suddenly, a sound that could only be described as miniature jet fights comes roaring from behind us right into the decoys, “TEAL!” exclaimed one of the guides, his excitement exceeding our own, ”Take them!”

We shouldered our shotguns and opened fire as they began to drop into the spread. Again firing as quickly as our trigger fingers would allow and even sometimes miscounting how many shells we had left in our firearms.  “Quick!” we would exclaim, “I need more shells!” franticly trying to reload to not miss out on the ducks that were trying to stay close to the decoys. This scene was repeated again as another flock of ducks came from the right of our blind before being met with our waiting trigger fingers.

It was only after this rush of excitement and ducks had slowed that we realized the task that lay ahead of us. In our eagerness of the morning, we failed to ask the question of how the fallen ducks would be retrieved throughout the hunt. We looked at each other almost expecting someone to break out the time-honored game of rock, paper, and scissors to decide who would play bird dog for this round of birds. However, before the first of us could offer this as a solution, one of our guides leaped from the blind to wade across the waist-deep water to collect birds on behalf of the group.

We watched as he waded through the decoys chasing down birds before they were carried away by the slow but relentless current. It was not long after watching his struggle that we decided to clear out the blind and assist in what would become the most unusual Easter egg hunt to be played. Each of us took turns recounting where we saw birds fall or where they were pushed to by the current until we had collected all the birds from the morning’s shoot. We hurriedly waded to the blind to reset for the next grouping of ducks that we felt sure were just out of eyesight.

This action continued for most of the morning, as we would listen to the ducks answer our guide’s calls, and then waiting almost impatiently for one of them to let us fire upon the flocks that had landed and circled the decoys. Finally, topped off with a “field trip” out of the blind to collect our winged prizes in the water, then resetting again with smiles that would revive a child’s at Christmas.

It was not until we had a slight lull, that one of my friends said, “These donuts are great but a real breakfast would be even better” that we were all reminded of our own stomachs that were also craving just a little more than the coffee and donuts we had much earlier that morning. Without missing a beat, the landowner said, “We can go to the big blind and I can make breakfast if you want?”  The looks on our faces must have spoken volumes to the landowner with our excitement and puzzlement of a blind that was bigger than what we were currently using, “Yeah, I have a larger blind that has a kitchen and porch.”  We could not believe what we were hearing and had to at least see this blind that held the possibility of food.

We loaded our gear and left the blind heading for the levee at the edge of the field, still keeping one eye towards the sky in case another group of ducks had planned on dropping into the decoys. Our waders sank into the clay and mud as walked closer to a large grouping of trees that started taking shape into a giant treehouse.  As we walked up the steps of this “blind”, I could not help but think how impossible it was for us not to see this massive structure earlier in the morning and day. It had a large room with a table, chairs, and stove with a porch on two sides of the building that had been brushed in for hunting.

Each of us walked up and down the porch watching for ducks as we stretched our legs while starting to unwind from the morning’s pace of waterfowl hunting. The only thing keeping us from aggressively pursuing more birds was the intoxicating smell of breakfast being cooked inside and the thought of it being gone before you could retrieve your bird. Soon we were told that breakfast was ready and after a pause for a moment of reflection, we began to eat the simple but delicious meal of eggs, bacon, and biscuits. We talked about our hunt and the success that we had and we complemented our host on thinking of everything that would make this hunt second to none.

After finishing our breakfast, the time had come for us to load up the gear and start the hike back towards our trucks for the journey home. We walked through the same woods that seemed to test our determination earlier in the morning but now those same trees seemed to openly accept us as if we had proven our worth to them earlier that day. The silence of the day being broken by the sound of us walking through the water and recounting our adventure to one another until we reached our vehicles.

We spent our time at the vehicles, removing our waders, jackets, and extra gear to prepare ourselves for the drive back home. Our hosts helped us to stow away any last-minute items and also offer ideas for preparing the waterfowl that we had all worked so had to obtain.  After we had all had a chance to thank our landowner and guide for the outstanding hunt, we piled into the truck for the journey back to our homes. As we drove down the road, I reflected on the time that we had spent in the woods and how amazing these opportunities are to experience the natural world.

Contributing Writer: Nicholas Betancourt

Gear used by the author:

Retay Masai Mara 12ga 

American Tactical Imports Cavalry 20ga 

Baschieri & Pellargi Shotshells 

Lacrosse Waders 

Rich N Tone Calls

We all know adding an optic to your AR-15 will enhance your shooting. However, which one should you choose: A red dot or a scope?

You’ll find out by the end of this guide. Let’s dive in!

What Is A Red Dot?

Simply put: It’s an optic with a red (or green) LED dot in the center.  They’re light, parallax-free, fast, and contain a glowing, simple reticle. The best part?

You can keep both eyes open while firing. Even better, you can use an iron sight alongside the red dot (known as co-witnessing). This allows you to aim from a variety of angles — perfect for close quarter combat (CQB) engagements. On the other hand, you may be wondering…

What Is A Magnified Optic?

It’s an optic that can ‘zoom in’ on faraway targets. They have larger power levels, more advanced reticles, and increased long-distance accuracy.

The best part? Magnified optics (or LPVOs) can do both: engage short-range and long-range targets…at the SAME time. This is very convenient — especially on the field when you’re lugging around tons of gear. But, it does take a little longer to ‘zoom in’ short-range compared to red dots.

How much longer? That’s what Lucky Gunner sought to answer when they ran a…

Red Dot Vs. Magnified Optic Speed Test

The experiment was simple. Test both optics head-to-head in a speed and distance test. Starting from 7 yards all the way up to 300 yards. The end goal was to see which optic was faster for each range. The result of the experiment?

From 7 yards up to 50 yards, red dots outperformed magnified optics by tenths of a second. That may not sound like much, but the truth is that’s quite a lot.

 Why is that? When you’re engaging in close-quarter situations, tenths of a second could mean life or death. However, from 100 yards and up, the magnified optic won by a few long seconds (sometimes up to 30 seconds). Again, not a surprise since magnified sights are designed to hit long-range targets. And red dots are designed for short-range targets. With all that said, I wouldn’t make a decision yet until you look at the…

Cons For Each Optic

Red Dot Cons

There are two problems with red dots.

The first is astigmatism. This is a biological eye problem that can affect your ability to use a red dot. Why is that? Astigmatism means you’ll see the red dot as a blurred, weird shape — even making it unusable in more extreme cases. But the big problem with red dots is it’s only designed for short-range. To overcome this, some people use a magnifier with a flip mount or an ACOG.

 In either case, you’ll be spending some extra coin (sometimes going up to $1000+). If that’s the case, you may want to start looking at the…

Magnified Optic Cons

The biggest con being short-range target acquisition speed. As we’ve seen from Lucky Gunner’s test, magnified optics take longer to ‘aim down’ targets from 7 to 50 yards. It’s also much heavier to use a magnified optic over a red dot. That said, you get a lot more freedom with magnified optics over red dots. In fact, low powered variable optics (LPVOs) can do the job of a red dot and ACOGs…without the expense.

So now that we’ve covered the cons, it’s now time for the final verdict…

Which Optic Is Better For You?

Here’s the straight-up answer: It depends on your usage. If you only shoot close-range (between 0-50 yards) or use your gun for home defense, then go for a red dot. It’s lighter, faster, and easier-to-use. Yet, if you’re shooting close-to-long range (over 100+ yards), then go for a magnified scope. It’s designed for longer range shots.

Simple enough, right? Now it’s your turn…

Which Optic Will You Choose For Your AR-15?

Will you go with a red dot? Or maybe a magnified optic? Either way, let me know in the comments below.

This article by Richard Douglas originally appeared here.

I have to admit: Being slapped with a $200 tax stamp and a couple months wait-time to get a suppressor sucks. However, it’s worth it. It’ll upgrade your shooting game to whole another level — just like if you were to upgrade a standard AR-10 rifle with the best AR-10 optic on the market.

The question is: Why should I use a suppressor? Well, you’re in for a treat because today I’m going to give you five reasons why you should shoot suppressed.

Let’s dive right in.

Reduces Hearing Damage

A helicopter flying at 500 feet. A police siren zapping right past you. A rock concert playing at full blast. A jackhammer piercing through a boulder. A jet taking off at full blast. What do all of these things have in common?

They’re quieter than the sound of a gun being fired. Seriously. For example, firing an AR-15  is about 165 decibels (dB) whereas a jet’s engine is approximately 130 dB. The problem?

Exposure to noise greater than 140 dB can permanently damage your hearing, according to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). And get this: most firearms produce noise that is over 140 dB. For example, a small .22 caliber firearm can produce noise around 140 decibels (dB); a .223 Remington rifle 155 dB; .44 Magnum revolver 164 dB. You get the idea — unsuppressed firearms are dangerously loud.

The solution?

Use a suppressor. Here’s why: Suppressors significantly reduce the sound level of supersonic firearms by 15 to 45 decibels, depending on the setup. How? By redirecting the flow of high-pressurized gases through a system of chambers and baffles to slow and cool down the pressure. So if you equip an AR-15 with a suppressor, it could reduce the firing sound by 30 to 35 dB. As a result, the AR-15’s firing sound will turn from a deafening 165 dB gunshot into a quieter 135 dB gunshot.

That’s below the dangerous hearing threshold (140 dB). And that’s exactly why you should use a suppressor, especially on home defense firearms like the AR-15. But suppressors don’t only reduce the sound of the shot at the muzzle. It also…

Reduces Recoil

Let me ask you this: Why do most people shoot a .223 Remington better than a .338 Winchester Magnum? Because it has lighter recoil. And guess what? Suppressors reduce recoil.

I could go into the full technical explanation of how suppressors reduce recoil through countering the gas pressure. But that shouldn’t be needed. All you need to know is that suppressors lessons the kick of a firearm.

Some would recommend using a muzzle brake to reduce recoil. And you should use one if your sole intent is to reduce recoil. However, muzzle brakes dramatically increase muzzle blast. Suppressors don’t. Which brings me to my next point…

Reduces Muzzle Flash

Muzzle flash is the visible light of a muzzle blast. The problem? Muzzle flash can temporarily blind the shooter or give away the shooter’s position — especially in low-light conditions. In addition, the flash signature could ruin night vision, obscure the sights, and make follow-up shots more difficult.

Now, you could use a flash hider which eliminates muzzle flash. Or, you could use a suppressor which does the same thing: eliminate muzzle flash and prevent “blooming” of night vision equipment.

With those three ancillary advantages — noise reduction, recoil reduction, and flash suppression — you’ll begin to notice that suppressors…

Enhances Accuracy

Unless the suppressor is improperly installed or mounted, suppressors do enhance accuracy.

Although some suppressors change the point of impact (POI), it’ll be by a very small amount. And despite the change in POI, it’s consistent with the pair. Stack that with less muzzle rise, less concussive effect, and less noise, and you’ll be left with nothing less than enhanced accuracy.

As a result, you’ll be happier with your shots. You’ll also have…

Happier Neighbors

“Happy Neighbor, Happy Life.”

I totally made that quote up. But I just want to make a point:

If you reduce the sound level of a gunshot (by using a suppressor), your neighbors will be happier. And since your neighbors aren’t filing noise complaints, you’ll be happier since you’ll be able to shoot more.

This also applies to shooters at gun ranges. People that live around a gun range simply don’t want to hear loud firework sounds go off every day. So, they’ll file a noise complaint and (sometimes) a petition to shut down the range. And in some cases, they actually win.

That’s why firearms equipped with suppressors will make everyone happy, including neighbors and shooters alike. So if you’re interested in buying a suppressor, here are the…

Requirements to Legally Purchase a Suppressor

• Be at least 21 years of age to purchase a suppressor from a dealer;
• Be at least 18 years of age to purchase a suppressor from an individual on a Form 4 to Form 4 transfer (contingent on state laws);
• Be at least 18 years of age to possess a suppressor as a beneficiary of a trust or as a member of a corporation (contingent on state laws);
• Be a resident of the United States;
• Be legally eligible to purchase a firearm;
• Pass an BATFE background check with a processing time of four to ten months;
• Pay a $200 transfer tax; and
• Reside in one of the 42 states that currently allows civilian ownership of suppressors.

If you pass all the requirements, you’ll need to find an authorized dealer next to you. The dealer will help you fill out a Form 4. You’ll be sending this form to ATF along with the following:

• ATF Form 4 (duplicate)
• FBI Form FD-258s in black ink
• $200 Check to BATFE-NFA
• Passport Photos
• ATF Form 5320.23 (if using a trust)

Alternatively, you can do this all online by following Silencer’s Shop guide on how to buy a silencer. That said…

Will You Use a Suppressor?

I absolutely love suppressors. It protects my ears, reduces recoil and muzzle flash, enhances accuracy, and harbors good neighbors. And I’m sure a lot of people would agree with me if suppressors were easier to acquire. That said, I’d like to turn it over to you:

Are you going to buy a suppressor? Or maybe you already have one and would like to share your thoughts.

Either way, let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.
This article by Richard Douglas originally appeared here.

It’s almost fall hunting season, and that means it’s nearly time to hunt deer. Whether you are peering down Redfield scopes from a tree stand, waiting for the perfect shot at a deer, or are carrying a bow or crossbow and hunting in the early season, here are some tips that can help you bring home dinner this fall.

Check Your Gear
The first step is to check all of your gear and supplies. Take your rifles to the range and make sure all the Bushnell scopes are still properly secured and zeroed. Clean and lube your rifles. Ensure all of your gear, such as tree stands or blinds, are in working condition and ready to be used. Do you have enough ammo? If not, get more. Do all of your hunting clothes still fit? If not, get new clothes. Make sure you have hand warmers and enough scent blocker. There is nothing worse than getting ready on opening day only to find you are missing something or your stock is low.

Use Game Cameras
If you can, do your homework before the hunt. Use game cameras, if possible, to track the movements of the deer. Hopefully, you started in the summer and have already scouted out locations. If not, better late than never. If you can understand why the deer are there, such as food sources, you can pick the ideal hunting spot. If you screw in an extra couple steps into either side of the tree around your stand, you can rest your rifle on the step to help steady the rifle. This makes it easy to look through your Redfield scopes and get a clear sight picture, making it a snap to shoot on target.

Prep Your Tree Stand
Blinds are relatively easy to set up, but tree stands require a bit more thought. Hopefully, you’ve done your scouting and homework, and you know where the deer are likely to show up. A great location for the stand is worthless if you aren’t adequately covered, and deer can easily spot you. However, you can use rope or zip-ties to attach fake tree limbs.

Get Rid of Scents
Scent control is vital, as human scents can spook deer, ruining a hunt. Take showers with scent-free soap. Wait until you are at the stand and spray. Don’t cut corners or get lazy, and spray everything you can. That includes gear such as rangefinders and any calls. Keep spraying multiple times throughout the hunt, as you will sweat. When you are done, spray down the tree stand, and spray yourself down before you leave so you don’t leave a scent trail. Wash your hunting clothes consistently to keep the human scent off them as much as possible.

Get everything you need for the fall hunting season from Natchez Shooters Supplies at www.natchezss.com

If you’re looking to mix up your usual fishing routine, this post is for you. Oftentimes, we stick to our “go-to” good fishing spots whether out of habit, predictability, or some unique perk (like onsite restrooms or your fave restaurant nearby!), but when’s the last time you tried somewhere new?

It’s time to shake things up and add a little adventure to your summer to-do list. Trying new places can challenge your mind and awaken your senses that tend to go dormant when you fall into a mindless routine. Chances are, there are many local fishing spots near you that you have yet to discover for yourself. Here are some ideas for tracking down those good fishing spots.

Start by checking out our interactive Places to Fish and Boat map powered by FishBrain. You’ll find localized fishing maps, what species you can catch, best times to fish, where to buy gear or fishing licenses, and more. The map also marks other points of interest such as boat ramps, marinas, and bait shops for your convenience.

To get even more specific, go where other local fishy folk hang out. Social media groups or online forums are common areas for sharing knowledge, local fishing spots, tips, and photos. You can also ask your local bait and tackle shop for intel—perhaps one of the best resources for real-time local knowledge like no internet search can provide.

You could check into listings on your state outdoor agency’s website or simply do it the old school way—take a road trip! Drive around your town until you stumble across good fishing spots that interest you. Expand your horizons outside of your usual routine and you’ll have no shortage of new, fun things to do outside this summer. Tight lines and good fishing!

If you have just bought your first rifle and don’t have much experience with firearms, you may be wondering what you should do next. Are Redfield scopes better than iron sights? Do you know the four rules of firearm safety? These tips will help you learn more about your rifle and what you want or need, all while keeping you safe.

1. Take a Safety Class
First, it’s a good idea to take a safety class at your local range. Find a class for new shooters that will help you learn the safety rules of firearms, as well as how to be safe while at a range. Instructors will also likely go over how your firearms work, giving you a good overview of the functions and mechanics of guns. This first step, education, is the foundation for the rest of your skills. Knowing how to stand, how to look through sights, how to hold your hands, and more are fundamentals to learn properly before you start practicing bad habits.

2. Head to the Range
On the matter of skills, the only way to improve them is to get some range time. Practice with your Bushnell scopes, or use iron sights for shorter-range target practice. You will also need to zero the rifle to your sights, adjusting the sights until they’re aligned. You should work on the basic mechanics of the firearm and practice reloading. If you have a bolt-action rifle, practice working the bolt. If you have a semi-auto, practice using the bolt release after emptying a magazine. You will want to practice both dry-firing without ammo and with live rounds. You will need a lot of ammunition, which you can find online, depending on your location. Learn the ins and outs of your rifle, and what you might like to change down the line.

3. Accessorize and Customize
Next, once you have some time with the rifle, you can accessorize. Some rifles, such as an AR platform, are easy to swap out parts, from the trigger to the handguard. You might want Redfield scopes to extend your effective range with the rifle if you only have iron sights. You can also get your rifle customized by a local gunsmith, who can fit your rifle to you. A different trigger can lower the amount of pressure it takes to squeeze and activate it, while a compensator can redirect gasses to help with recoil.

4. Keep Practicing and Try New Ammo
Finally, get more range time and keep practicing, especially as you swap out parts. You can also try using different types of ammo, such as various grain counts, or make your own ammo to customize it to your rifle and needs. Keep increasing your skills, and don’t let your new rifle collect dust in a closet or safe.

Picking Up Brass: Reasons You Should Load Your Own Ammo

If you have been considering loading or reloading your own ammunition, you might be wondering what the benefits are. While it can be a bit of work and an upfront cost, the benefits can greatly outweigh buying factory ammo. Here are some of those benefits and why loading your own ammo might be right for you.

Cheaper Costs Over Time
The upfront costs of starting to load and reload your own ammo are high. A press is the most expensive part, but as long as you continue loading your own ammo, you will find it cheaper than buying factory ammo over time. Some calibers, such as .22 LR, are much cheaper to reload than others, such 9mm. While the margins for 9mm are not great due to how plentiful 9mm is, if you go with rarer ammunition, you will see greater savings. While reloading is more work than loading, thanks to the brass slightly expanding after being fired, you can also recycle used brass, saving even more money in the long run.

Make Special-Purpose Ammunition
Imagine looking down the Redfield scopes of two identical rifles, one with factory ammo and one with ammo you have loaded. You have a long-distance target. The factory ammo falls short, thanks to a number of factors, such as wind. There was not enough powder, which means not enough energy to go fast enough to ignore wind as a factor. If you load your own ammo, you control the powder, the type of bullet, and the primer. You can make special-purpose ammunition, such as rounds that fly faster and farther, perfect for target shooting or hunting. It’s not uncommon for competition shooters to make their own ammo in order to give them an edge when allowed.

Ignore Ammo Shortages
Is there a shortage of factory-made ammo in the caliber you need? Just like everything else, ammo is vulnerable to sudden changes in buying habits, and there have been several shortages in recent history; unless, of course, you made your own. That meant work, getting each of the components, and putting it together yourself. The payoff, however, was ignoring the ammo shortage. For future shortages, this means getting out to the range or going hunting without worrying that you will not have the ammo you need, even if it’s hard to find on store shelves.

Make Ammo For Your Gun
If you took the time to look through a selection of Bushnell scopes for your rifle, finding the perfect one for you and the rifle’s purpose, then it only makes sense that you would take the time to create your own ammo specific for your rifle. Whether it’s because the twist rate in your barrel isn’t common, or you are simply trying to make the most of a revolver with an oversized bore, you can load ammo specifically made to do well with your guns.

It’s Fun
Reloading is a great way to relax. It’s repeating actions, which can help you get into a zen-like state. You can have fun experimenting with different bullets, casing, the amount of gunpowder, and so on. The money on supplies spent can directly translate to both skills in creating rounds, and shooting those rounds will make you a better shooter over time.

Get the ammo loading supplies you need Natchez Shooters Supplies at www.natchezss.com

Father’s Day is coming up, and it’s time to upgrade your dad’s day at the range with some help from Natchez Shooters Supplies. Whether it’s adding Leupold, Trijicon, or Bushnell scopes to his arsenal or getting him a classic Miami Vice-style shoulder holster, these welcome additions make great Father’s Day gifts.

Rifle Scopes to Extend His Range
Extend your dad’s effective range at the range with Redfield scopes for his rifles. Whether it’s an AR-style rifle or a bolt-action rifle passed down from your grandfather, adding a scope will help your dad be more accurate at a distance. Plus, they are great for hunting. A scope such as a Redfield Revolution with a 3-9x variable magnification will help spot deer or targets downrange.

A Miami Vice Shoulder Holster to Carry What’s Needed
Did your dad love Miami Vice? Then get him the shoulder holster they used on the show. The Galco Miami Classic Shoulder System can hold a handgun and two magazines, or pouches for revolver speed loaders. Be sure to get the right version for whichever handgun your dad has, such as a Glock or Sig, as the holster uses different molds. They are great for concealed carry but be warned that, as they are leather holsters, they need time to break in. After they are broken in, however, they offer a buttery-smooth draw. Plus, who doesn’t want to feel like Don Johnson?

A Bipod to Steady His Aim
A bipod can help steady your dad’s aim if he has a table, bench, log, or any other reasonably flat surface available. It’s a great help for longer shots, especially when looking through Vortex, Burris, or Bushnell scopes. Some bipods are fixed, while others are adjustable for slanted surfaces and for height. Be sure to get the right bipod for his rifle, paying attention to whether, for example, it’s a Picatinny rail or an M-LOK.

A Chest Rig to Hold Mags
Instead of keeping loaded mags on a table or in a range bag, your dad can keep them close at hand with a chest rig, like the Blackhawk! Split Front Chest Rig. It offers webbing for attaching mag holders, pouches, and accessories, as well as space for water tubes from a backpack as well as pockets for extra storage. It will make for faster, tactical reloads while keeping accessories close at hand.

A Sling to Keep the Rifle Close
Looking for a great sling for your dad’s rifles? Try the Blue Force Gear Vickers 2-Point Combat Sling, developed by legendary Delta operator Larry Vickers. Connecting at two points on the rifle, the Vickers sling features an easily adjustable slide for pulling the rifle in tight for long-range shooting and can slide back when your dad is ready to go hands-free but keep his rifle close at hand.

Shop for Father’s Day gifts for your dad at Natchez Shooters Supplies at www.natchezss.com

There are a million different things that can cause a shot to miss its target. Like many skills, shooting takes time and experience to master, but there are a few tricks that can help you along the way. Here are seven mistakes that are quick to fix and can help improve your shooting accuracy, whether it’s a metal target or a deer.

Improper Ring Alignment
If you have been aligning scope rings by eye and slapping Bushnell scopes on your rifle, you are doing a disservice to the optics. Trying to align by eye will undoubtedly result in poor alignment. The rings in front need to be in alignment with the rings in the back. Do not estimate, as an incorrect alignment could damage your scope when firing. It can cause dents, making it harder to adjust the scope while also distorting the reticle. Instead, use a level to ensure the scopes are in alignment, and your accuracy should improve.

Over- & Under-Tightening Screws
You need to strike a careful balance when attaching a scope to your rifle, or your shooting will suffer. Overtighten the screws, and you could damage the scope, snapping your optic. On the other hand, under-tightening means the scope can move ever so slightly, throwing off your accuracy thanks to recoil. If possible, use an adjustable-torque screwdriver and set the scope to the manufacturer’s recommended amount of torque.

Not Zeroing the Scope
You just added Redfield scopes to your rifles, and you’re going hunting this weekend. If you haven’t zeroed out the scopes, your aim will undoubtedly be off. Take the time to zero the scope and take the time to do it properly.

Shooting Too Fast
You see the target and, channeling the Call of Duty games, quickly bring up your rifle and take the shot, barely looking through the scope. Rushing will only decrease your accuracy. Slow down, focus on your breathing, use the reticle, and take the shot. If you lose sight of your deer during the window, wait for another opportunity—it’s better than missing and spooking the animal.

Poor Trigger Technique
Poor trigger technique will ruin a shot every time. Jerking the trigger will jerk the rifle, throwing off your aim. Instead, use an even pull with the pad of your finger instead of the joint. Consistent pressure is key. It is more of a controlled squeeze than a true pull. Practice dry firing and remember to follow through on the trigger squeeze.

Fear of Recoil & Scope Bite
While fear of recoil, much like practice, is something that takes training, you can eliminate scope bite, or scope eye, by properly placing your scope. Proper cheek weld will help, but if your scope is too close to your face, it could still hit you on recoil. Your scope should have generous eye relief, and the rifle should be properly fitted.

Forgetting the Follow-Through
Fight the urge to look at the target immediately after shooting. Raising your cheek from the rest can result in a larger grouping. Only move your head after reacquiring the target through your optic.

About Natchez Shooters Supplies
Natchez Shooters Supplies was founded in 1979 by two families to supply shooters with quality products. An all-in-one shop for outdoorsmen, they value hard work, integrity, and offering an exceptional selection of goods, from scopes to reloading supplies. Just like their customers, the Natchez Shooters Supplies team consists of outdoorsmen, sportsmen, and hunters. Their goal is to make the shopping experience personal and tailored to customers’ needs. Natchez Shooters Supplies offers everything from firearms parts like Redfield scopes to ammunition and reloading supplies, as well as supplies for shooting, hunting, fishing, camping, and survival gear for the wilderness. If you need to find a solution to your sporting needs quickly, their expert team is always available to help.

Shop for shooting essentials at Natchez Shooters Supplies at www.natchezss.com

Are you just getting into shooting and bought a rifle, but don’t know what you need now? Natchez Shooters Supplies is here to help you get everything you need, from Magpul PMAGS to Bushnell scopes, so that you can have a fun time at the range or hunting.

Magazines & Ammo
First, you will need magazines and ammo for your new rifle. Magazines hold the ammunition, but having spare, loaded mags is never a bad idea. This also makes quickly reloading possible. With only one mag, you will have to constantly load the magazine, which can be cumbersome and time-consuming without tools to help you fill the mag. Which ammo you need is dependent first on your rifle. Your rifle may be able to use multiple calibers, such as 5.56 and .223. However, other considerations include grain count, which can affect the speed of the bullet.

Optics
Whether you are going for Vortex red dot sights or Redfield scopes, you will likely want to upgrade from iron sights to optics. Red dot sights give you a better sight picture and make aiming easier at shorter distances, while scopes help you with shooting at longer ranges. Which you decide to go with is determined by what and how far you want to shoot. For target shooting, you might want a red dot sight, while hunters may gravitate towards scopes.

Ear & Eye Protection
Before pulling the trigger, you will want ear and eye protection. Ear protection includes earplugs, such as the Howard Leight Quiet Band, and electronic earmuffs, such as the 3M Peltor Sport Tactical 100. Electronic earmuffs use microphones and cut out sound when a gunshot is detected.

Gun Case
You will need a gun case for transporting your rifle to and from the range. There are two types of cases you can get: Hard and soft. A soft case is usually a type of fabric, and useful for carrying your rifle around. However, because it isn’t a hard case, accidentally dropping a soft case could break any Bushnell scopes or red dot sights you might have attached to your rifle. A hard case, which includes padding, provides more protection at a higher cost.

Cleaning & Maintenance
Many rifles can go through quite a few rounds before needing cleaning, but all firearms do eventually need to be cleaned. You will need cleaning solvents and lube, as well as brushes or patches. Bore snakes are another popular option. You can either get individual pieces or a kit. Be sure to get a cleaning mat to protect surfaces while cleaning your firearm.

Get all of your shooting, hunting, fishing, camping, and survival essentials from Natchez Shooters Supplies at www.natchezss.com

Whether it’s your first hunt or your hundredth, don’t leave home without these hunting essentials. If you aren’t sure which is the best for you, let the professionals at Natchez Shooters Supplies help you sort through Redfield scopes and ammo reloading to help you have the best hunt possible.

The Right Type of Ammunition
First and foremost, bring enough ammo. If you are shooting waterfowl, that means bringing boxes of shotgun ammo. For rifles, it means plenty of either detachable mags or boxes of ammo. If you are reloading, be sure to mark different loads for quick identification.

The Right Scope for Your Expected Ranges
If you are using rifles, don’t forget your Bushnell scopes. Deer and other game may be in your line of sight but at a distance. Scopes can significantly increase your accuracy over longer distances, especially compared to using iron sights. If you are not sure which scope is best for your rifle and your game, let the experts at Natchez Shooters Supplies help you decide which is right for you.

Knives for Utility and Dressing Game
Bring at least two knives: a multipurpose knife for any odd jobs you might have to perform, and a knife specifically meant for dressing game. These hunting knives are used for skinning and processing game, and while they also perform other functions, it’s best to keep the two separated.

Calls and Decoys to Attract Game
For waterfowl and turkey hunting, you’ll need decoys. Bird, deer, or elk hunts need a call to mimic the animal’s sounds and attract them to you. They can be the difference between landing a deer or bird and having a completely unsuccessful hunt.

Scents and Attractants to Hide Your Presence

Scents can help cover your own scent, creating a barrier between you and your target. For example, doe and fawn urine can not only cover your scent but be applied to a decoy to increase the decoy’s effectiveness. You can also get scent eliminators, reducing your scent and eliminating odors so as not to alert game to your presence.

A Rangefinder and Binoculars to Gather Information
Binoculars will help you find a target. They can also help you track a faraway target. Some of the top-end binoculars are combined with a rangefinder, and some account for uphill and downhill shooting angles. A rangefinder performs a simple but essential function: determining the distance between you and your target. This can help as you won’t have to guess the distance when looking through Bushnell scopes, and can instead immediately compensate for distance and other conditions.

A Ballistics Weather Meter for Greater Accuracy
While you may know the distance and can compensate for bullet drop, a ballistics weather meter measures wind, altitude, and other critical variables to help you calculate an accurate aim point, important at long range. You won’t have to throw a handful of grass to determine wind speed: this device does it for you.

Shop for hunting essentials at Natchez Shooters Supplies at www.natchezss.com

– Contributing Writer: Richard Douglas –

There are so many options in the world of hunting rifles today. If you didn’t grow up shooting and hunting like I did, all of these choices can be overwhelming.

Today we’re going to discuss the best rifles for new hunters.

First Things First

Safety first!
Most states now require some type of hunter’s safety course before issuing a license to hunt. This is not a replacement for hands-on firearms training! Before you shoot a firearm by yourself, take a firearms safety course from a licensed instructor.

Most gun ranges offer them for a nominal fee, sometimes free. Not only is this your responsibility as a hunter, but you’ll also be able to focus on the hunt instead of not blowing off your toe!

We have a family friend who has the computer from his car with a hole in it, mounted on his wall like a deer’s head, complete with a plaque stating where and when he “killed” it. This experienced hunter accidentally discharged his rifle while loading it into his trunk, sending a bullet into the cab and straight through the body control module underneath the passenger seat! It’s a funny story (and true!), but if someone would have been in the vehicle, they could’ve been injured or killed.

Best First Rifle

Rifles come in several types and many different calibers. No matter what you plan on hunting, I think you should go ahead and buy a Ruger 10/22 right off the bat. Ruger has been making these rifles for over 50 years and has sold millions of them, and they start around $200.

As long as you properly maintain it and use decent high-velocity ammo, it will be very reliable and last a lifetime. The .22LR caliber is very inexpensive and does not kick at all, so you can practice for hours without hurting your wallet or your shoulder.

I highly recommend staying with iron sights at first. Learning to shoot with iron sights is a must if you’re going to learn to shoot properly. Once you have enough experience, then you can upgrade to a red dot like the Bushnell TRS-25 or a riflescope. I shoot my Ruger 10/22 for fun more than any other gun I own, and I squirrel hunt with it regularly.

A Good Bolt Action

While a .22 rifle is great for practice and small game at close range, it lacks the oomph needed for anything larger than a rabbit, and it loses power and drops quicky out past 50 yards or so.

For most hunting, you’re going to need something with more power and range. I highly recommend a bolt action rifle for more serious hunting. There are other types out there that are great, but none is more practical than a decent bolt action.

They are very easy to clean and maintain and are very accurate and reliable. Their simple design makes them relatively affordable, and there are plenty of quality models out there for less than $500.

There are many different makes and models out there, available in many different calibers.

The Right Caliber

Of course, the right caliber for you depends on what you want to hunt.

Everyone has their own opinion about what caliber rifle is best for a given application, and this topic can quickly turn into a heated debate among hunters. There are some cool newer calibers out there, like the Winchester Short Magnums and others, but they are typically more expensive and harder to find.

Imagine heading out into the boondocks to the hunting club and realizing you’re low on ammo. The local small-town Wal-Mart may not carry anything but the most common calibers. Some of the newest calibers may not catch on at all, and you could end up with a rifle that is nearly impossible to find ammo for.

The practical advantages that these newer calibers offer are minimal, and really don’t outweigh the disadvantages in my opinion. I recommend staying with the more tried-and-true common calibers for now. If you want to get one of the newer ones down the road, then go for it.

For smaller game like varmints, up to predators as large as coyotes, I recommend the .22-250. It’s very accurate at long distances and packs plenty of punch for anything up to a big coyote.

A step up to .243 will still be small enough for large varmints, but can drop a decent-sized deer out to 200 yards or more with the right ammo. You can kill much bigger game with a .243 at close to medium range with proper bullet placement, but I don’t recommend it.

This may be the most versatile choice if you have to pick just one rifle and you’re not planning on hunting anything larger than a medium-sized deer very often.

If you’re planning on taking down big game on a regular basis, then I’d recommend a .30-06. This caliber is accurate and effective on even the largest game in North America out to 300 yards or more if used properly. I’ve dropped whitetails in their tracks over 400 yards out with mine using regular store-bought ammo. There are much more powerful calibers out there, but they can be overkill for smaller deer and recoil will be significantly higher.

Conclusion

Like I said, everyone has their own opinion and gun enthusiasts love to argue about which guns are best for what. Do your research and befriend some experienced hunters. Ask plenty of questions and read some reviews. There is no perfect rifle for every situation, but the choices I’ve laid out here should at least point you in the right direction. Remember: BE SAFE and Happy Hunting!

—

Author Bio: Richard Douglas is a firearms expert and educator. His work has appeared on large publications like The National Interest, Daily Caller, American Shooting Journal, and more. In his free time, he reviews various optics on his Scopes Field blog.

If you aren’t shooting small, tight groups when you fire your rifle, it could be an error with the firearm, your setup, or your technique. Make sure, for example, your Bushnell scopes are mounted correctly, your rifle is clean, and you slow your breathing. The following tips will help you get back to staying on target.

Clean the Rifle
First and foremost, clean your rifle. A clean rifle is an accurate rifle. If you haven’t cleaned the barrel, for example, carbon or copper buildup could affect the ballistics of the bullet as it travels down the barrel, which may reduce accuracy. Make sure the rifle is cleaned and properly lubricated.

Mount and Use a Scope Correctly
If your Redfield scopes aren’t mounted correctly, your accuracy will be off. Use quality rings and mounts, and don’t over-tighten the screws. If you use a lower-quality mount or ring, recoil could shift the scope, requiring you to zero in again.

Adjust the Trigger Pull
You want to have a crisp, clean trigger pull with a consistent break. If there’s too much creep, you won’t know where the break point is, leading to inconsistency and lower accuracy. Technique is essential, as well, as too many people pull a trigger incorrectly. You should be able to move the trigger straight to the rear of the rifle without disrupting the sight picture. Try putting a small object on the rifle and keep practicing until you can pull the trigger without moving the object.

Fit the Rifle to You
The stock, or bedding, should be fitted to you. Hunting rifles, for example, greatly benefit from a custom-fitted stock. This often requires a trained gunsmith and could result in a long wait, but the accuracy improvement is worth it.

Use the Right Load
Know the ballistics of your load. Whether you are using ammo you formulated, or that you bought from the store, you should know how it will behave as it comes out of the barrel. Test different loads to see how each works with your specific rifle and reload yourself if you can’t find a store-bought load that works for you. It requires trial-and-error but can significantly increase your accuracy if you know how each load behaves and how to zero for your preferred load.

Control Your Breathing
Just by breathing, you can throw off a shot. When you are ready to shoot, take a deep breath, and exhale about half of it. As you squeeze the trigger, hold your breath. Don’t hold for too long, however, as this can speed up your heart rate, increasing your pulse and causing the rifle to move. If that happens, start over. For the most accurate shot, pull the trigger between heartbeats.

Follow Through
You may want to admire your shot and see if you hit the target directly after firing. Instead, you will want to keep looking through the scope. Follow through with the recoil, and then look.

About Natchez Shooters Supplies
Founded in 1979 by two families, Natchez Shooters Supplies aims to supply shooters and outdoorsmen with quality products. The best all-in-one shop for those who love being outdoors, the company values hard work and integrity. They take pride in offering an exceptional selection of goods, from ammunition to camping supplies. The Natchez Shooters Supplies team, just like their customers, consists of hunters, outdoorsmen, and sportsmen. The brand’s goal is to make the shopping experience personal and tailor it to customers’ needs. Natchez Shooters Supplies offers everything from firearms parts and accessories like Redfield scopes to reloading supplies such as brass and powder, as well as supplies for shooting, camping, hunting, fishing, and survival gear for the wilderness. Their expert team is ready to help you quickly find a solution to your sporting needs.

Shop for shooting essentials at Natchez Shooters Supplies at www.natchezss.com

– Contributing Writer: Richard Douglas –

Professor Plum. In the billiard-room. With the revolver. Or is it a pistol?  Are those the same thing? It’s for sure not a rifle or shotgun. Right?

What’s the difference between all these firearms anyway?

Okay. So most likely you’re not playing an actual real-life classic board game wondering these things. It’s more likely you’ve seen many kinds of guns in movies or TV shows you’ve watched. But there are definitely differences you’ve noticed about the guns and those differences are actually quite pronounced.

You notice different styles. Different sizes. Different calibers (like the best home defense .45 ACP carbine). But which is which? How do you tell the difference? What characteristics make each gun appropriate for a certain task or situation?

Here’s the first thing you should know…
There are three main types of guns:

1. Pistols
2. Rifles
3. Shotguns

While each type can have similarities to the others, there are distinct and unique differences that put each into its own category.

So what exactly are those characteristics?
Read on to find out…

Pistol

Let’s start with the smallest.

Generally speaking, a pistol is a handgun with a rifled barrel that is less than 16 inches in length and which a shooter does not support from the shoulder. It is fired from one hand.

A revolver — which is indeed the gun used in the classic version of Clue ‒‒ is classified in the pistol category. However, a pistol can also be a semi-automatic.

If you’ve ever seen a police officer’s gun, you’ve most likely seen a semi-automatic pistol.

If you’ve ever seen an old western movie duel, you’ve likely seen a revolver — probably a Colt.

Rifle

A rifle, by contrast, requires two hands to shoot as well as shoulder bracing.

Its barrel ‒‒ which is 16 inches or greater in length ‒‒ has rifling.

Rifling, or the grooves within the barrel which give a rifle its name, force the bullet to spin which results in greater distance, accuracy, and stabilization of the bullet.

One bullet is ejected from this firearm with each trigger pull. A rifle can be either semi-automatic or bolt action. Hunters often use rifles. Snipers, (think Mark Wahlberg in Shooter), do too.

Shotgun

If you’ve ever seen an action movie (and let’s face it, there are plenty out there to see!), chances are you’ve seen a shotgun.

Like a rifle, a shotgun must be braced against the shoulder and also requires two hands to shoot.

Where it differs is that a shotgun’s barrel is typically smooth and thus lacks rifling. It also differs from a rifle because it can fire different kinds of ammunition. For instance, a shotgun can fire “shot,” which is generally composed of pellets that scatter when shot from the gun.

It can also fire a “slug,” a solid projectile which has immense force and leaves a deeper wound than shot. A shotgun is also 18 inches or longer. Additionally, out of the three categories of guns, the shotgun’s barrel has the thinnest walls.

But like a rifle, a shotgun also has two subsets:

1. Pump action
2. Semi-automatic

Considerations

The characteristics of each gun make it useful for different situations. Before selecting a gun, think about what you need it for and how the characteristics of that gun-type will help or inhibit your purpose. Here’s a general guideline:

Pistols (or handguns) are mostly used for self-defense/home-defense. The reason? They’re small, compact, and easy to maneuver with.

Rifles could be used for about anything you can think of:

• Hunting
• Plinking
• Home Defense
• Target Shooting
• Lots more

Lastly, shotguns are primarily used against small moving targets (for example, birds). It could also be used for home defense and hunting.

And that’s it! Next time you’re playing Clue, be the expert at the table. Don’t just call it a gun.

Call it what it truly is:

A revolver.

Author Bio: Richard Douglas is a firearms expert and educator. His work has appeared on large publications like The National Interest, Daily Caller, American Shooting Journal, and more. In his free time, he reviews various optics on his Scopes Field blog.

– Contributing Writer: Richard Douglas –

When it comes to shooting, accuracy is key.

After all, improving your accuracy will save you time, ammunition, and even your life. The question is: How do you improve shooting accuracy?

Easy. Just slightly adjust a few small tweaks in your shooting form. For example, I first struggled with hitting the bullseye at 500 yards with my Ruger Precision Rifle chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor.

But with a few minor adjustments, like equipping my rifle with the best 6.5 Creedmoor scope and following these tips I’m about to cover, I was able to nail targets like never before. That said, here are three tips that’ll help you go from shooting like a Stormtrooper to John Wick in no time.

1.   Stances and Grip

It’s no secret that how you position your body and hands will have a tremendous impact on accuracy. Get it wrong, and it’ll affect your sight picture and comfortability — two key factors for accuracy. Let’s start with stances:

Your stance will dictate stability, control, and how the force from the weapon is distributed to your body when shooting. The good news? There are a variety of stances you can pick from — the most popular being Weaver, Chapman, and Isosceles. To determine which stance is ideal for you, simply try each one out with a variety of firearms and see which one feels the most natural to you. It becomes far easier to shoot accurately when you’re in a comfortable position.

With the stance in place, it’s time to talk handgrip. The way you hold your firearm will affect two things: recoil and control. Here’s how to properly grip your gun: First, you want to grasp the gun with your dominant hand firmly. Then, wrap your non-dominant hand around your dominant hand to create a firm hold on the firearm. Doing so will ensure less movement from the firearm and thus, more control.

When firing a pistol, in particular, you want to line up your forearm with the weapon. This will help control recoil, as the force from the pistol will be distributed straight through your forearm, rather than your wrist.

2.   Press, Don’t Pull

A common mistake many rookie shooters make is improper trigger technique. Many individuals pull the trigger too hard, rather than carefully pressing on it. This sudden force on the trigger will cause the firearm to jerk. Not good.

Instead, you want to press on the trigger slowly until the shot breaks. With the firearm remaining in a stable position, it becomes easier to follow up with additional shots afterward with far greater accuracy. Again, keeping control of the firearm here is key.

3.   Dry Fire

“Practice makes perfect.”

How many times have you heard that quote? Probably a lot. After all, if you want to get good at anything — including shooting guns accurately — you need to practice continuously. And one of the best ways to practice shooting is dry firing (or the process of shooting your weapon without any live ammunition inside it). Here’s why you should dry fire:

• No additional expenses for ammunition
• No safety hazards risk
• Enhances trigger control
• Helps build the muscle memory needed to shoot accurately consistently

A little practice each day is all it takes. Honing in on those skills is important to refine your technique over time. If you are already an accurate shooter, dry fire practice will help you stay at the top of your game.

Here are a few essential rules to keep in mind when dry firing:

• The firearm must be unloaded
• Dry-fire in a dedicated area that has a safe backstop in the direction the gun is pointed
• No live ammunition is allowed in the designated dry-firing area
• Wear eye protection
• Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot
• Use snap caps. This will protect your gun’s firing pin or striker from unnecessary damage

Wrapping it Up

Let’s quickly recap everything we’ve learned so far:

1. Stances and Grip: Choose a comfortable stance and practice with it. Also, properly grip your firearm by placing your non-dominant hand around your dominant hand.
2. Proper Trigger Control: Don’t use a lot of force when pulling the trigger. Find the right amount of trigger by trial & error.
3. Dry Fire: One of the best ways to practice. Dry fire as much as you can.

Practice these tips daily, and you’ll see shot improvements in no time — I guarantee it.

—

Author Bio: Richard Douglas is a firearms expert and educator. His work has appeared on large publications like The National Interest, Daily Caller, American Shooting Journal, SOFREP and more. In his free time, he reviews various optics and guns on his Scopes Field blog.

Having come from an extended family of hunters, I grew up shooting scoped rifles. Despite my familiarity with optics, rings and bases that mount a scope to a rifle always intimidated me. Evidently, my father was also wary as he always took our rifles the local gun shop and had their guy mount them up. I talked to my dad recently about this. He told me it always seemed like it would be too difficult which was bizarre coming from a man who once taught jet engine mechanics in the Navy. It wasn’t until I went to work in the shooting/hunting industry that I got past this fear. Once you have a grasp of the basics, it’s very easy to order the correct pieces as well as install them yourself.

Most rifle manufacturers make bolt action rifles in 2 primary action lengths, short and long. There are other action sizes like “micro-mauser”, “super-short magnum” and “medium” but these are most often a proprietary size to a particular manufacturer. For our purposes today the only thing we need to remember is that short actions are usually designed around the .308 Winchester cartridge. This means anything with an overall cartridge length of 2.80” or shorter is a short action cartridge. Long actions have traditionally been built around full sized rifle cartridges like the .30-06, and if a cartridge is longer than 2.80″, the rifle that shoots it is generally a long action gun. But are we talking about the rifle or the cartridge? The reason this is confusing is that some manufacturers don’t strictly adhere to this rule. For example, the .22-250 cartridge has been built on both short and long actions. It can be confusing. Before shopping for scope mounts you should know what action size your rifle is. Speaking in general terms the “. 308 rule” is usually accurate. This only really matters when talking about 1-piece ring mounts and integral mounts. 2-piece ring mounts bolt separately to the front and rear receiver rings and thus don’t have to match the overall length of the action.

One of the more straightforward types of mounting system is the ring mount. Many manufacturers build rifles that forgo the need for bases with receivers that are machined to accept proprietary types of ring mounts. Ruger has half moon cutouts. Sako has a tapered dovetail. Many rimfire rifles and air guns will have a 3/8” or 11mm dovetail depending on country of origin. Ring mounts are very easy to install.

The last kind of mount, and one that’s growing in popularity, is the integral mount. Incorporating the base and rings into a single rigid piece (usually made from tough aircraft grade aluminum) the integral mount is easy to use and install, but doesn’t always offer a lot of adjustability like a traditional ring/base combo does. Often this style of mount is marketed as “tactical”, with the ability to mount directly to a Picatinny rail on your favorite modern sporting rifle. DNZ offers a wide selection of integral mounts for traditional bolt actions and several of our experts have used them with excellent results.

With the diversity of scope mounts on the market, it’s easier than ever to purchase the correct hardware and install it yourself, especially if you use our ring & base finding tool. If you still find yourself in a quandary over what brand or style to purchase, never be afraid to consult an expert. You can even give us a call at 1-800-251-7839 and talk to one of our experts.

The appeal of shotguns is their ability to be useful in many situations. From shooting clay pigeons with a multi thousand dollar over and under, to Grandpa’s single shot for deer hunting. Shotguns can and have done it all.

Shotgun ammunition‘s basics are fairly easy to understand, but like many things in the shooting world, can become complex very quickly. Shotgun ammunition consist of a primer, a hull (shell case), wad, and shot. The shot is what make the shotgun such a versatile firearm. Shotgun ‘shot’ comes in sizes from 12 (.05 inches) through OOO Buck (.36 inches), and also includes slugs (typically large single projectiles). The smaller shot usually translates to more pellets per round. Shot can also come in different shape pellets and be made of lead, steel, and even bismuth. In the case of slugs they can be designed for smooth bores or rifled barrels and often with weight in excess of an ounce.

One of the more archaic parts of shot shells is the use of dram equivalents. Dram equivalents were a comparison of black powder loads with modern smokeless powder. This term is still used today, but is fading out of popularity. Depending on the gauge, drams are often seen between 2.5 dram to 4 dram equivalent. In the past one would refer to shotgun shells as high brass or low brass, denoting how much charge was used. More often, modern ammunition is listed by it’s velocity and may not have high brass.

One of the overlooked items with shotguns is the wad. The wad is three basic parts, the powder wad, the cushion, and the shot cup. The powder wad is designed to provide a seal between the powder and shot, and to keep the two from mixing. Next the cushion is generally a plastic buffer to reduce damaging or deforming the shot. Lastly the shot cup is a slotted ‘cup’ designed to hold the shot as one unit and to protect the shot as it travels down the barrel.

One of the confusing aspects of shotguns is the gauge. Most shotguns use a volumetric measurement to denote size. A gauge is the number of lead spheres that are required to equal a pound in a given volume. A 20 gauge would require 20 to equal a pound and a 12 gauge would only require 12 and is larger. Although some shotguns are in bore diameter, such as the .410.

This year the .308 Winchester cartridge will turn 65 years old, but retirement is nowhere in sight for perhaps the most versatile rifle cartridge ever created. The .308 Winchester was the commercial offspring of post World War 2 military development in 1952 to produce a more compact, manageable .30 caliber replacement for the .30-06 Springfield. Built off the .300 Savage cartridge, the .308 Winchester (Or 7.62×51 NATO in military guise) quickly became a hit after being introduced in Winchester’s Model 70. The .308 cartridge is manufactured in bullet grain weights ranging from 110 to 220 grains and is suitable for a whole myriad of jobs from varmint to target to big game and dangerous game animals.

While no rifle cartridge can really do everything, but of all the rifle calibers on the market today, the .308 Winchester comes the closest to being the North American universal cartridge. It was Colonel Jeff Cooper who famously stated that the .308 Winchester cartridge was powerful enough for any big game animal up to 1000 pounds on any continent. Most experts and hunting journalists disagree with this assertion, arguing there are several animals in North America alone that the .308 isn’t stout enough to take down. I have a friend who went to British Columbia to hunt moose. He packed his .338 Winchester magnum “moose gun”. His hunting guide carried a Remington Model 7 in .308 Winchester and stated it was plenty powerful enough for the B.C. The caliber argument is destined to rage on.

As for my opinion on the .308 Winchester cartridge, I know what I have seen with my own eyes. I’ve seen .308 take down a massive trophy whitetail buck. I watched my older brother take down a good-sized feral hog with a .308. I’ve personally used the same Savage model 10 in .308 to hunt coyote with 110-grain bullets and whitetail deer with 165-grain bullets. This particular rifle has a 1 in12 rate of twist with a 24” barrel and shoots both bullets nearly identically at 100 yards.

Years ago an engineer from Sierra bullet company tried to explain to me why .308 Winchester and 7.62 NATO were such inherently accurate cartridges. A lot of what he said went over my head but what stands out most about our discussion was him talking about how .308 in 165-168 grains hits the “sweet spot” as far as projectile weight, velocity, pressure and ballistic coefficient. This goes a long way to explaining why service rifle competitors and police snipers swear by that configuration.

Doing a little research, I was shocked to find out what a popular hunting caliber .308 Winchester is in Europe. According to Norma, it’s in the top 5 most popular rifle calibers they manufacture. My research pointed to inherent accuracy and ease of obtaining reloading dies and components as the 2 most likely reasons for the popularity of .308 in Europe.

Over the years I have owned several rifles chambered in .308 Winchester from my Savage Model 10 to a L1A1 sporter, and a junky old Ishapore Lee-Enfield and I must say I am a fan of the caliber. While I can’t picture myself hunting grizzly bears or wildebeests with a .308, I certainly have no reason to doubt the accounts of the hunters who have. Effective hunting, after all, is about proper shot placement and of course, proper shot placement is dependent on accuracy and that is why .308 Winchester isn’t going anywhere.

– Andy Merciers

When I was a kid learning to hunt whitetail deer here in the South it seemed like all of us youngsters hunted with short-action rifles and the grown men hunted with long-action rifles. The easy explanation is that calibers that fit short actions tend to have relatively tame recoil compared to calibers that long action guns were chambered in like .30-06 and .270. Like my father, I eventually graduated to a more powerful long-action cartridge because I had “outgrown” the caliber I hunted with as a child. In the years since then, I have learned a lot about ballistics and now realize that many long-action calibers are overkill for whitetail in this part of the country. In most deer hunting scenarios in this region, I would prefer a short-action caliber hands down. The following are a few of my favorites.

.243 Winchester  The.243 Winchester has been marketed as a “youth” caliber for 60 years now because of its soft recoil. Originating as a wildcat built on the .308 casing, the .243 Winchester is very versatile with bullet weights typically ranging from 55 to 100 grains. This means hunting varmints, predators and whitetail deer with the same rifle is a viable option, even for grownups.

7mm-08 Remington   Another wildcat built on the .308 Winchester casing, the 7mm-08 Remington is one of those overlooked and sometimes underestimated calibers. Like its .243 sibling the 7mm-08 is a somewhat soft shooting caliber but has a more focused mission than the .243. Typical projectile weights are 140 to 150 grains traveling at about 2700 feet per second making it ideal for southern whitetail. One of our experts has dropped 3 nice looking deer where they stood with a 7mm-08 Savage this season.

.35 Remington  I grew up hunting with a Marlin 336 in .30-30 Winchester and fully understood its limitations. If I knew then what I know now, I would have begged my dad for a lever gun in .35 Remington instead. Obviously, I’m a fan of the big slow bullet and the .35 Remington delivers that in spades. The only deer I ever shot and could not find was shot with a .30-30. I can’t help but wonder what kind of difference the extra weight and energy of the .35 Rem would have made.

.22-250 Remington,   I know a retired Airline pilot who got into hunting late in life. He lives in east Texas and uses his Remington model 7 chambered in .22-250 to hunt everything from wild pigs to whitetail to prairie dogs. For his trip to Tennessee last year he had a custom ammo loader make him some 64-grain power point loads. He had no problem knocking down a 120-pound doe.

.308 Winchester   At 2.8 inches overall length, the .308 Winchester is the gatekeeper between short and long actions. Anything longer is considered a long action caliber. Dating back to 1952, it is the most popular hunting cartridge world wide with a huge selection of factory ammunition for nearly any medium sized game. The .308 Winchester comes closer to being the perfect all-around cartridge than any before or since its introduction. No caliber can be all things to all hunters but the .308 Winchester comes the closest so far.

– Andy Merciers

Although stalking deer in this part of the country is all but unheard of, I have always been fond of the lighter weight, easy carrying deer rifles. Perfect for a long hike to a distant tree-stand or scouting a ridgeline, these rifles won’t wear you out, especially when paired with a good sling. To be clear, lightweight does not necessarily equate to easy of carry. A rifle that feels good to carry can make you not notice a little extra weight, the same way that an unbalanced gun can make itself feel like an anchor. The following are a few classic rifles I wouldn’t mind lugging around at all.

Winchester Model 94 Trapper: Like many other youngsters, I cut my teeth deer hunting with a lever action .30-30. At 34 inches long and weighing in at around 6 pounds the Model 94 Trapper is an ideal brush gun. The .30-30 is plenty enough caliber for whitetail deer and in a pinch works fine for feral hogs or the wayward coyote one might encounter. The best characteristic is the rifle’s balance. The 16-inch barrel prevents the rifle from being front heavy, making one-handed carry comfortable.

Remington Model 788: My older brother went to a yard sale about 20 years ago and walked away with an old Remington 788 for $100. Chambered in 7mm-08 the gun is super accurate and pleasant to carry as I found out on a family coyote hunt a few years back. The unique bolt design uses three rows of three lugs on the rear of the bolt meaning that lock-up occurs to the rear of the mag-well. Offered with a carbine length barrel, the 788 was an inexpensive gun that still shot well and carried even better.

Harrington & Richardson Handi-Rifle: It all started 16 or 17 years ago when I made myself the punch line for the weekend by showing up to hunting camp without a rifle. The 2 things I learned that weekend was the importance of a checklist and what a delightful little gun the Handi-Rifle is to carry. The .243 example I borrowed from a friend was feather light and easy to carry. For lack of a better word, it was “Handi”.

Savage Model 99: In the late 19^th century Arthur Savage addressed the one glaring flaw in most lever action designs up to that point. The tube magazine is what relegates lever action rifles to flat nosed cartridges to prevent the tip of a bullet from hitting the primer in front of it. The fear of accidental detonation of spire pointed rounds was no longer a concern with Savage’s advent of the rotary magazine. Elimination of the tube magazine also made for a more balanced rifle. In the very capable caliber of .300 Savage, the model 99 is a deer killing machine.

Remington Model 600 Mohawk: The Mohawk was intended to be a budget variant of the Remington 600. The Mohawk featured an 18.5” barrel without the vent rib the standard 600 was known for and tipped the scales at less than 5-1/2 lbs. The one from my childhood was chambered in 6mm Remington and weighed an even 6 pounds with a 4-power Tasco scope on it. A cousin of mine still owns this rifle. He assures me it’s still a joy. The Mohawk was made from 1971 to 1980 and while they’ve definitely increased in price, they’re still available on the secondary market.

– Andy Merciers

There’s nothing quite like a little surprise gift to make someone’s holidays a lot better quickly. Here’s 10 easy gift ideas that won’t break the bank and will help you share a little more holiday cheer this winter.

Kershaw gift set: I think it’s nearly impossible to be an outdoorsy person without having at least some appreciation for a good knife. Here’s a good knife, backed up by a keychain tool and a slick little multi-tool. All for less than a movie and popcorn.

Ruger Cleaning Kits: These are great kits for any gun owner, not just the Ruger fan in your life. Built out of quality brass components, these kits are ready to go and affordable. Just add your favorite flavor of cleaner.

MTM EZ-Throw Clay Thrower: Automatic clays/skeet machines can be expensive and bulky, but this handy clay thrower travels well and the elongated handle mean you can throw more clays, further, with less effort.

Streamlight MicroStream: Nobody likes slipping and falling in the dark evenings that seem to come far too soon this time of year and a good flashlight can help prevent a nasty spill.

Tannerite Rifle Targets – 1/4lb: Start the new year off with a boom! Perfect as a surprise for a shooting buddy’s new rifle, these exploding rifle targets add a ton of excitement to a range trip.

Tru-Spec Thermal Top: Everyone likes staying warm, and this pull-over is perfect for layering.

Ammo! I’ll admit, this one’s an easy one. A little extra ammo makes a range trip to test out that brand new gun even sweeter and we’ve got a great selection of budget oriented handgun ammo.

Peltor Safety Glasses: I don’t know about you guys, but if I had a dime for every pair of safety glasses I’ve misplaced, lost or accidentally broken, I’d have enough to buy another pair of safety glasses. Go ahead and get an extra pair for the stocking.

Allen Rifle/Shotgun Socks: Give them the pair of socks that they actually want. These soft knit rifle socks will protect firearms from moisture and damage.

Paracord: The most versatile item in my camping backpack, paracord is perfect as a gift. With a little effort and a Youtube guide or two, paracord can be turned into handmade gifts like slings, survival bracelets or hammocks.

Growing up in the 70’s and 80’s a flashlight was something that sat in a drawer most of the time and rarely worked when you needed it to. During a power outage, we would grope around with a lighter till we found the candles. I didn’t see a flashlight as much more than a toy when I came to work for Natchez in the early 90’s. It was around that time that I was introduced to the concept of a tactical flashlight.

The idea of a flashlight as a defensive weapon seemed absurd until a training demonstration of a high power tactical flashlight changed my mind. The original Surefire 6P would blind someone with a mere 60 Lumens. Those were the days before LED’s and all  flashlights used an incandescent bulb. Tactical lights with their high performance bulbs were energy hogs, and would eat batteries like popcorn. The situation with the bulbs wasn’t much better. They burned out frequently and were expensive to replace. Some lights even required new reflector assemblies when the bulb burned out. The expense was the number one argument against high-intensity tactical lights.

Twenty-odd years later and flashlights have come a long way.  There’s a wide selection of excellent tactical flashlights, all for under $50. They have high output LED’s that are nearly indestructable, have long battery life and tend to be built like a tank. And every hardware store and gas station has a bucket full of not-so-excellent LED flashlights, usually for under 10 bucks. My everyday carry light is a Streamlight PolyTac with a maximum output of 275 lumens, was affordable and has a lifetime warranty. These days a light should be part of your everyday carry equipment alongside your pocket knife.

There’s a few things to look for in an EDC tactical flashlight. Modern, quality defensive/tactical lights are built to be durable enough to withstand a drop or be used as a last-ditch bludgeoning weapon. If the light is cheaply or poorly made, it might fail when you need it most. The light should be small for ease of carry and should provide at least 100 lumens of light. The light should also be waterproof and easy to operate. I myself prefer lights that utilize 3-volt CR123 lithium batteries for their long life, plus I know they won’t corrode or leak acid in my pocket. There are plenty of lights that use AA and AAA batteries, which are a little easier to find and cheaper than the CR123 battery, but can leak acid.

The important question here is why. Why carry a light every day? The most obvious answer is the everyday simple things like looking for the keys you dropped in the driveway or rooting around in the shed, but a quality flashlight is a powerful defensive tool to have. A tactical light alongside a handgun utilizing proven techniques can be the way out of a bad situation and makes identifying threats possible in less than optimum lighting conditions.  Once you become accustomed to having a light in your pocket you’ll wonder how you made it without one.

In the world we live in today everyone should carry a flashlight. Life can be unpredictable with natural disasters, and man-made emergencies. Bad things happen all of the time. Whether used alone or as part of a weapon system, a good flashlight can save your life.

– Andy Merciers

When I came to work for Natchez in 1994, I’d never reloaded and had no plans of starting either. It looked too technical and too expensive for me. I had grown up hunting and owned several long guns and one handgun and factory ammo was OK with me. My mentor Bill got me interested in IPSC shooting which was convenient for him, as he happened to have a used Caspian .38 Super race gun for sale. When I picked up the gun, Bill handed me a big plastic bag full of .38 Super brass and said, “by the way, your going to have to learn to reload this caliber.” Bill sat down with me that afternoon and taught me to reload .38 Super for IPSC.

On Saturdays I would trek out to Oak Ridge to compete and during the weeknights I would reload my .38 Super cases. Bill loaned me a press and equipment and I began to build the bare minimum to reload the one caliber. I started out with a LEE hand-priming tool and a set of LEE .38 super carbide dies that came with a shell holder and a powder dipper came next. The desire for more consistent powder charges led to the purchase of a LEE powder scale to ensure accuracy when dealing with fractions of grains of powder. Because my inherited collection of .38 Super brass was growing old, some of it had to be discarded and the rest had started to stretch and needed trimming. Again I went for the the budget solution. I already had a cordless screwdriver with a drill chuck so the LEE cutter and lock stud along with the .38 Super case length gauge did the trick for less than a nice dinner. At this point I had everything I needed but the press. The LEE hand press turned out to be just the thing. With some primers, projectiles and a bottle of Accurate No. 7 powder, I could shoot IPSC on the cheap and all of my equipment would fit into a shoebox. The situation was copacetic until Bill convinced me I needed to switch to a .45 ACP Para Ordinance race gun. He just happened to have one for sale.

Over my 21 years manning the Natchez phones I repeatedly referred to LEE as the “poor-man’s” reloading equipment brand, which made some LEE fans rais their eyebrows until I explained my love for the brand. If it were not for LEE Precision, many people would have never gotten into the hobby. I was on a budget and managed to shoot competitively on the weekends because LEE made good quality equipment that I could afford. LEE’s reloading manual is one of the more user friendly and is perfect for the beginner. If you need technical help, the folks in Hartford are there for you. Dollar for dollar LEE is the my favorite reloading brand.

– Andy Merciers

A couple years ago I acquired through some trading a nice Smith & Wesson Model 66 with a 2-1/2″ barrel and the old style thin wood grips. When I went to shoot it, I was dismayed. It bucked, squirmed and generally did everything but stay in my hand. Constantly re-adjusting my grip after each shot made the gun useless as a carry gun and not much fun for range use either.

Since I can’t swap my gorilla sized hands for a smaller size, I swapped the grips for something a bit larger. A Pachmayr Gripper grip was easily installed with a screwdriver and a week later, I was back at the range. The gun was easy to control, even with .357 Magnum, but when I went to carry the gun, the grips felt a little too big to carry. I decided to try the Hogue Bantam grip. It installed a little differently but soon I was ready for the range. While the recoil was a little harsher, it was still very easy to control. The Pachmayrs were so nice to shoot at the range, I kept them around as an excuse to find a nice 6″ K frame. With one little change, that revolver went from a greased pig to one of my favorite carry guns.

Aftermarket grips are one of my favorite firearm accessories. Just like gloves, not all guns will fit your hand, but aftermarket grips can change that.

It all started Christmas morning 1974 with a brand new Roy Rogers Cap gun set. It featured 2 die-cast nickel-plated cap guns along with genuine leather drop holsters mounted on a Roy Rogers signature belt. The cool thing about the holsters was that a lot of toy guns I already had would fit into them. In no time I was fashioning the toy into a shoulder rig for when it was time to play Starsky and Hutch. I even modified one of the holsters to make it fit my new Han Solo Blaster. I was fascinated with holsters. Looking back, it’s no surprise I ended up in the shooting sports industry.

Since the mid 90’s I’ve been carrying a handgun. Over this period of time I have carried a diverse selection of pistols and revolvers. In these 20 years of daily carry, I have purchased many holsters. Some might even say too many holsters. Others may even use terms like ridiculous or excessive to describe my holster habit. There has even been talk of an intervention. Because of my unique ‘qualifications’ I can give advice on what not to do when choosing a holster.

Don’t shop for a holster without deciding where on your body you intend to carry. (Hip, shoulder, small of back, inside the pants etc.) Once you have this sorted out the rest is easy. Study up on what will work with your body type.

Don’t purchase a holster without considering your comfort. Regardless of what looks cool you will have to wear it day in and day out. Comfort is paramount.

Don’t rush into buying a holster without asking yourself one of the most basic questions. Do you want leather or synthetic materials? If you want a leather belt holster, be aware of how quickly perspiration breaks down even the most expensive leather.

Don’t buy high-end leather without understanding fitment /break in issues associated with leather. Higher end leather will barely fit the firearm initially. Break-in before carry is a must.

Don’t buy a holster just because your favorite primetime TV detective wears one. I call this the PDQ effect. In 1994 actor Jimmy Smits wore a Bianchi PDQ on ‘NYPD Blue’ months before they hit the market. Demand was through the roof. The minimalist design looked great on a TV cop, but was too minimalist for real law enforcement.

Don’t buy a holster just because you saw it on social media and it has a tough sounding name. You see this every day. Watch out for the guy who ‘re-invents the wheel’. All of these guys aren’t crooks. All I’m saying is buyer beware. Look for reviews on the product first.

Don’t be shy about asking for help. We have a sales force of guys who carry every day. The odds are pretty good they’ve heard your question before so don’t be bashful. We’re here to help, so give us a call at 1-800-251-7839.

– Andy Merciers

Over my years in the shooting sports industry, I have seen handgun-hunting surge and wane in popularity several times. This is often times tied to the success of new handguns being introduced into the market. When Taurus first introduced the Raging Bull revolver in 1995, handgun scopes surged in popularity. A similar reaction happened with debut of Smith & Wesson’s massive X-frame revolvers in 2003. Handgun scopes are most closely associated with big bore hunting revolvers. I don’t believe most shooters realize how fun it is to shoot a handgun equipped with magnified optics. The most fun I’ve ever had with a pistol was a Browning .22 Buckmark with an inexpensive Simmons 4 power scope.

When choosing the right handgun scope there are several factors to consider. Many of the single shot hunting pistols are chambered in rifle calibers and require a more robust scope with variable power. Modern day hunting revolvers provide plenty of punch, but traditionally have been used with fixed power scopes, probably because they get more of their stopping power from bullet weight rather than velocity. Plinking with a .22 doesn’t require as serious a scope and there’s a few great options that don’t break the bank. Here’s a few scopes worth taking a look at.

Leupold FX-II 2×20

I like the simplicity of this super durable little scope. It’s light and would be at home on a .22 pistol or a magnum revolver.

Leupold FX-II 4×28

Simplicity and durability are what this scope was built for. Fixed power means no variability in eye relief and extreme durability. It’s a perfect all-around scope for the hunter who wants to mount the scope, zero it and forget about it.

Burris 2-7×32 (BU200299) 

For decades Burris has been one of the go-to names in handgun scopes because of their wide range of optimal eye relief and superior build quality. This scope has all that and more in spades.

Sun Optics 2-7×32 Extreme Recoil series

Sometimes you get way more than you paid for. This scope proves that theory. It features an etched duplex reticle, single piece tube design and punches way above it’s modest price.

Bushnell Elite 3500 2-6×32

Anyone who needs that extra little bit of eye relief will really appreciate the 20 inches this scope will afford you. That and superior build quality make this scope a real performance bargain.

Weaver Classic 2.5-8×28 

There is a reason this scope has remained unchanged for so many years. It will take a pounding from the meanest magnum revolver loads as well as high-powered rifle round. It’s a true classic.

Weaver Classic 1.5-4×20

If I were going to hunt dangerous game with a handgun, this scope is the one I would choose. The low variable power is ideal for fast target acquisition and follow up shots.

Leupold VX-3 2.5-8×28 

This is my favorite handgun scope we sell. It will stand up to a massive amount of recoil and hold perfect zero, all with excellent eye relief and the crystal clear glass Leupold is known for. It’s made in American and warrantied forever. What more could you want?

– Andy Merciers

When is dry firing ok and when should it be avoided? Dry firing, or pulling the trigger without a cartridge or dummy round in the chamber is something most of us have done. Maybe it was to test a trigger at a gun shop or maybe it was to disassemble a pistol like the Glock, but it’s something most firearms owners have done. But is it bad for the gun? The answer is a little complicated.

Some firearms can be damaged by dry firing. Without the cushion of a snap-cap or primer in a live round, some firearms are susceptible to damage. I’ve got a Colt Lawman Mk. III, a fine shooting .357 Magnum, that cannot be dry fired. The firing pin can be broken by dry firing and to replace that critical part requires a trip back to Colt. Same thing with many rimfire firearms. Because rimfire “pinches” the rim of a case between the chamber and firing pin to fire, when dry fired the firing pin can damage the chamber mouth. Long term, this can lead to missfires or even an out-of-spec chamber.

The good news is most modern firearms are designed to be safely dry fired. You’ll need to check your owner’s manual to be sure, and be aware that it does cause some wear. Ruger has even designed many of their rimfire firearms to be safe to dry fire! Dry fire is an excellent way to practice trigger control. It’s not as good as going to the range, but it can help you learn how to cleanly pull a trigger, increasing accuracy.

The best answer is snap caps. Built from brass, aluminum or polymer, snap caps are inert rounds that protect your firing pin from damage and are usually brightly colored so you don’t mix them up with real ammunition. With snap caps, it’s safe to practice with my old colt.

*Safety Warning: Always follow the basic safety rules and your firearm’s owner manual. Always make sure your firearm is unloaded and live ammunition is put away before practicing any dry fire exercises. We’re not responsible for your actions.

Flag Day commemorates the adoption of the stars and stripes as our national flag on June 14^th 1777. This day also represents the birth of our Army as the Continental Congress formed the American Continental Army on June 14^th 1775. Despite common folklore taught as history, neither George Washington nor Betsy Ross had anything to do with the design of the 1777 flag. It was Francis Hopkinson, a Naval flag designer and a signer of the declaration of independence who conceived the 1777 flag that is very similar to one we salute to this day. The Betsy Ross legend didn’t become common mythology until some 90 years later when told to biographer by a relative of George Washington.

An interesting fact is that prior to being officially declared a national holiday by President Woodrow Wilson in 1916, several Americans had on their own volition chose to celebrate Flag Day. As early as 1861 individuals like George Morris, Bernard Gigrand, William T.Kerr and Elizabeth Gillespie all tried to organize the public around this holiday with little success. The commonality between all of these individuals is that they were all educators who understood the importance of our national history.

When I was a wee lad in grade school we learned about our flag and what the stars, stripes and colors represented along with the history of the flag. This history was reiterated and reinforced through the Cub Scouts, 4H club and later JROTC. I was always taught the 13 stripes symbolize the 13 original colonies and that the white stood for purity and innocence while the red symbolized hardiness and valor. The blue field represents vigilance, perseverance and justice. The stars represent the 50 states. As our nation has grown our flag has been modified some 26 times since 1777 but it still represents our nation. Our flag still has the power to give me chills. Despite the tenuous relationship between history and mythology and how radically our Union has changed, liberty and justice for all is as relevant a concept as it was in 1777.

– Andy Merciers